Joined: May 2018 Posts: 2,110 Threads: 110
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Location: Llandrindod Wells
Car type: 29 Special, 30 RK, 28 C Cab
Hi John
Does your V5C not show an engine number? If so that “should” be the crankcase number which can be accurately dated.
Cheers
Howard
PS I sympathise with your eyesight problems. I had a vitreous detachment last year leaving me with an eye full of “floaters”. Scary but not sight threatening. It does make you realise how important eyesight is. Since then I’ve been “religious” about wearing safety goggles!
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,641 Threads: 93
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Location: Monmouthshire
21-01-2020, 02:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 21-01-2020, 02:57 PM by Steve kay.)
Quick, urgent research is required. Flee from the computer in the study down to the workshop. I can confirm that the oil filler in my 1935 Ruby is free of grub screws or other fastenings.
Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
Reputation:
8
Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
Steve, Thanks for clearing that up. My car does show however that with a seven over 80+ years old you cannot be certain that its exactly as it was when it left the factory.
John Mason
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 16 Threads: 1
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OP here.
Got the manifold off and it's apparent the rear bolt was sheared many years ago, as there's a few threads in the block and the bolt's flush with the manifold surface. I think there's enough thread in the block to enable a secure enough fixing. I need to remove the remains from the manifold. The front bolt's a different kettle of fish. The remaining stub is very thin and corroded and I think it may be preferable to cut it off flush with the block and then drill it out.
