Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 657 Threads: 19
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I am curious to know how dry liners are fitted and held in place, and what their outside diameter is. Are they a shrink fit using heat/cold, or is some kind of adhesive/loctite used. If the latter, would it put back some of the lost strength ?
Slightly off-topic, the first engine I rebuilt in the 1970's was for my 747cc Renault 4, with wet liners. I was told that the use of wet liners meant that the iron could be optimised for bore wear rather than for intricate block casting. It also made the open block easier to cast. All this metallurgy didn't help when a gudgeon pin circlip decided to let go (possibly due to my youthful over-revving in second gear of the three speed box) and the pin proceeded to hammer two deep grooves into the bore sides. This was eventually revealed by a distinct lack of performance on the hills of North Wales and a strange feel to the starting handle of three compressions and one "nothing". I had to drive it 250 miles from university to home in this state before repairs - good job traffic was lighter then !
Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 5,522 Threads: 231
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In my experience the diameters (and therefore thickness) can vary. Boring must suit what you have and the liners are then pressed in, I have always understood that an interference fit of 0.004" is correct.
Problems can obviously arise if the bore is too tight or too sloppy.
Joined: Mar 2015 Posts: 5,522 Threads: 231
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Hi Stuart - the line in the crankcase was a score, possible from a knife if I recall correctly. The engine came to me like this and was fitted with original rods - these were reused in the rebuild. The fixing adaption to the base of the crankcase you describe would have prolonged the life of this block for sure.
I have cap screws fitted in place of studs in my Ulster engine, which have held so far, but it is certainly not a racing engine.
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26-09-2019, 02:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 26-09-2019, 02:43 PM by Steve Jones.)
Stuart Giles wrote
Never had a problem with this once the two outer studs in the tappet chest were extended past the cam through to the crankcase base.
Was this simply a case of drilling/tapping the filter gauze web in line with the two outer studs in the tappet chest and making a pair of studs that spanned between the web and the top of the crankcase emerging through the bottom of the block as normal, Stuart?
Steve
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Thanks, Stuart that makes perfect sense.
Steve
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With the degree of chassis twist transmitted thru the crankcase, as evident by gasket problems, it is curious that failure apparently does not occur on severely used cars with rigid mounted engines and mild tune.
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Oh but it certainly has, Bob Culver!