Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,160 Threads: 68
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Location: Nottinghamshire. Robin Hood County
Car type: Austin Ruby Mk1 1935
If after investigation you find it is the engine rear oil thrower/screw that is the problem cherished suppliers do a modification where you can buy a modern lip seal and plate to hold the seal all kept in place with the same studs.
John Mason.
Sorry for being so blind I missed the bit on your original post about new oil all round.
Would you believe it "Her who must be obeyed" refers to my Ruby as the toy.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,462 Threads: 26
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Location: North Yorkshire
30-01-2019, 03:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 30-01-2019, 03:57 PM by Steve Jones.)
First question, Mark. When Adam did the work to the clutch, did he remove the flywheel? If so, he stands a chance of disturbing the rear main bearing seal. Knowing something of the history of Adam's engine, I would have thought that it already had the lip seal conversion but, of course, it might not. Either way, if it is that that's leaking the only real remedy is to remove the engine and then flywheel and replace. The seal be it a lip seal or a felt runs on the rear flywheel boss and these are, inevitably, worn or marked through use with a poor running surface. That can be reinstated with a Speedy Sleeve at minimal cost.
However, if the oil leak is from the gearbox the most likely source is the joint between the gearbox casing and the front nose piece. There's no good reason why this should leak more than before but experience says they do for no apparent reason! In that I'm not alone. Remedy is to remove the nose piece and renew the gasket, perhaps with a smear of sealer to make sure it's oil tight. Be very careful to note the shims both to the bearings and the selector rods. Easy to miss them.
Leaving it and keeping an eye on the levels as some suggest isn't really an option. The car's used for competition and the pool of oil under a leak like this is guaranteed to upset both organisers and scrutineers. On the IoM they get particularly upset as you'll be aware.
Finally, one of the many advantages of using 75-90 GL4 Gear Oil in the gearbox rather than engine oil is that in your situation you can tell instantly whether it's the engine or gearbox that's leaking as the Gear Oil has the distinctive smell of a gear oil.
Steve
Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 134 Threads: 17
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Location: Oop North
Adam has managed to get it all pulled off again & the only place that oil is coming from is a little around the 1st motion shaft. Nothing from behind the flywheel.
So it looks like it was mainly a case of too much oil in the box to begin with.
Any tips on fitting the felt seals?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 327 Threads: 1
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Location: Bristol
fit front lip seal from A7 components BH58a it is a direct replacement for the felt. Terry
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01-02-2019, 11:49 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-02-2019, 04:58 PM by mk1-mark.)
Thanks Terry, I'll have a look at that.
Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 134 Threads: 17
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Location: Oop North
Curses!
The Gods are conspiring against us.
Ordered a gearbox gasket set for stock a while ago, upon investigation this had 2 x rear felt seals & no front ones, phoned the supplier explained the situation, ordered 2 more front seals.
What arrives? More bloody rear seals!
We now have 4 rear seals & still no front ones, lets see what the post bring tomorrow.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,462 Threads: 26
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Location: North Yorkshire
New front felt here, Mark, if you get desperate. We're only 30 mins away.
Steve
Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 134 Threads: 17
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Location: Oop North
Cheers Steve,
We will see what tomorrows post brings.
Regards,
M