stator tube ignition plate diagnosis

[JonE]

Stuart - I'm presently thinking that I'll persevere as is until I come across another SWB saloon steering column so I can strip things with no time pressure.
At present, every little problem that arise results in a strip down that seems to have grave consequences (i.e. things beyond the immediate environs of the former problem... )
Anyone got a cheap working steering column?!

[Steve Jones]

I've only done this once and it was a very long time ago so I can't remember exactly but I think Stuart's correct.

Steve

[JonE]

But presumably it is going to need resoldering/brazing together again once replaced.
So even if you CAN get the thing out in situ, it would seem it would need to be stripped to get it together again properly?

[Steve Jones]

Here's some photos.

   

The nut can be removed as the photo shows. I did this many years ago and don't remember exactly how but it was successful! Note the centre popping.

   

This is the end of the three tubes. The larger one to the right shows the solder remnants where it was attached to the brass nut. It is soft solder.

Bottom line, however, is that I can't see any of this is possible without removing the steering column and box and stripping it down.

Steve

[Hedd_Jones]

Dad was faced with this problem with the chummy some years ago. Dear Mick Kirkland supplied a replacement stator tube via a scrap steering box. Neither father nor I have had any success in messing with the black art of steering box assembly or adjustment. So I think dad got Aled in Wrexham do it as a swap for a rubber mounted high frame crankcase.

[Dave Mann]

Before attempting to unscrew the big nut securing the stator tube in remove Austin's enormous pop marks by either drilling or turning so that all the damaged metal is removed. then you may attempt to undo the nut, it will undo about 1/4 turn then the whole lot turns so refit the steering tube and the outer column and screw the outer column down to remove all end float, this will stop the stator tube turning. DO NOT use grips on the stator tube if you intend to reuse it, I once spend many hours straightening one out which was the cause of very tight steering.

[Stuart Joseph]

Dave, a proper engineered solution, I'm ashamed to admit that I tried Mole grips and ended up with a stator tube with more flats than a threepenny bit (pound coin in this new decimal parlance).

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

[Tony Press]

great, thankyou both.
Tony - can you remember how the BM136 Control Bracket Tube is actually secured at/in the bottom?
Can't make it out from Woodrow.

I think it was a tight push fit in the brass 'bottom thrust bush' or 'Bracket'. On the original assembly the tube was broken off  at the bracket but I found another bracket without a tube and pushed the replacement tube home without soldering. Working well so far (five years )

---

Hello Jon. I was recently faced with the same task. I used a socket on the large brass nut at the bottom of the steering box expecting it to be screwed into the aluminium however the nut and stator tube turned. It seems that the nut is screwed into the brass 'thrust' washer inside the steering box and I couldn't find a way of holding it. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Regards from the creative county - Staffordhire

Stuart

A simple way to hold the brass 'washer' is to screw the steering column down on to it - thus locking the worm  onto the thrust face of the brass 'washer' as Dave suggests, then unscrew the nut. (after drilling out the centre pops)

[JonE]

Do we assume that these later control tubes are the exact same diameter as the control bracket tube we are talking about on the earlier cars? I know there is no practical purpose in knowing, but I'm presuming it likely is!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223267106457?ul_noapp=true

[AustinWood]

I had trouble clamping the Ignition/Gas plate to the stationary outer tube in the column. I cured this by inserting shim to allow the clamp to grip the tube.
Are you sure that this isn't what is happening in this case?
The innermost of the three tubes is the hand throttle, next is ignition and the outermost is the stationary tube to which the plate is clamped.
This can be checked quite simply.
First remove the two levers on the bottom of the column. First note their position which I suggest is done with both levers at the lower end of their travel. Then slacken the clamp bolts and the levers willcome off.
Also slacken the clamp for the Ignition/Gas plate.
Once this is done the plate and 2 inner tubes can be pulled up the column an inch or so. This should reveal the outermost tube to which the plate should clamp. It should protrude by the thickness of the plate and should not be loose.
If it doesn't protrude or is loose then the outer tube needs to be replaced as already described.
If it does then the clamping of the plate is inadequate. I used shim to get a tighter fit. Don't over-tighten the clamp, it will split the plate.
There are screws in the levers that tension the springs that grip the plate to stop the levers moving. If these are unscrewed and the springs and friction blocks removed the plate can be separated from the levers which makes it easier to fit the plate onto the the outer tube.
Once the plate is clamped firmly the two inner tubes can be pushed home and everything done up.