03-04-2023, 08:47 AM
Dear Old Dave,
The first thing I would say to anyone who thinks their sump joint is leaking, is "are you quite sure it's the sump joint?" - as pretty much anything above that (e.g. the block/ crankcase joint, or the valve chest) will dribble down to the sump and unless you catch it in the act it's not easy to determine with confidence which is the culprit.
If you're hell-bent on fixing it (certainly advisable if you're in the gallon-a-week bracket) yes, personally I'd do something about those screws, although they do appear to be doing their job. You could tap oversize or personally I'd make an oversize threaded plug and start again with a fresh drilling and thread. Others prefer helicoils, no argument here unless the holes break through into the sump, in which case you'll need some sealant on the helicoil. (If already tapped metric this door may be closed to you). Either way you CAN do it under the car but you'd be much better off noting the job down for next time the engine comes out.
About tightness, personally I'd say "tight with a spanner" is TOO TIGHT. I use slotted round-head screws in mine and nip them up with a screwdriver, never had one drop out. If you are using a standard A7 "tin" sump heaving up on these screws will only distort the flange, which is what causes the leaks. It probably also accounts for the vast number of stripped sump screw threads one encounters on old cases.
The first thing I would say to anyone who thinks their sump joint is leaking, is "are you quite sure it's the sump joint?" - as pretty much anything above that (e.g. the block/ crankcase joint, or the valve chest) will dribble down to the sump and unless you catch it in the act it's not easy to determine with confidence which is the culprit.
If you're hell-bent on fixing it (certainly advisable if you're in the gallon-a-week bracket) yes, personally I'd do something about those screws, although they do appear to be doing their job. You could tap oversize or personally I'd make an oversize threaded plug and start again with a fresh drilling and thread. Others prefer helicoils, no argument here unless the holes break through into the sump, in which case you'll need some sealant on the helicoil. (If already tapped metric this door may be closed to you). Either way you CAN do it under the car but you'd be much better off noting the job down for next time the engine comes out.
About tightness, personally I'd say "tight with a spanner" is TOO TIGHT. I use slotted round-head screws in mine and nip them up with a screwdriver, never had one drop out. If you are using a standard A7 "tin" sump heaving up on these screws will only distort the flange, which is what causes the leaks. It probably also accounts for the vast number of stripped sump screw threads one encounters on old cases.