08-06-2022, 02:05 PM
Hi
It's a long time since I refurbished a rear damper, but I seem to remember that unlike the front, the rears are not designed to be adjustable. By that, I mean that the coil spring BU27 is tensioned by cup washers and spring washer plus nut/locknut which are tightened hard down onto the unthreaded "shoulder" of the mushroom-headed bolt BU24. I don't remember them having an especially fine thread, just BSF. One assumes that the pre-set amount of spring compression (not quite coil-bound) gave the correct damping action, at least when everything was new and of original design.
I have always checked both front and rear dampers with a pull on the end of the arm via a spring balance. A pull of 15 to 20 lb to get the arm moving seems to be about right.
At the link end of the arm, the bushes are gripped tight so there is no turning by the bolt shanks inside the rubber. I assume it's best to tighten the nuts with the suspension in the normal position, i.e. weight on the wheels. With suspension motion, the bush will then "squirm" back and forth over a fairly small range of angle.
It's a long time since I refurbished a rear damper, but I seem to remember that unlike the front, the rears are not designed to be adjustable. By that, I mean that the coil spring BU27 is tensioned by cup washers and spring washer plus nut/locknut which are tightened hard down onto the unthreaded "shoulder" of the mushroom-headed bolt BU24. I don't remember them having an especially fine thread, just BSF. One assumes that the pre-set amount of spring compression (not quite coil-bound) gave the correct damping action, at least when everything was new and of original design.
I have always checked both front and rear dampers with a pull on the end of the arm via a spring balance. A pull of 15 to 20 lb to get the arm moving seems to be about right.
At the link end of the arm, the bushes are gripped tight so there is no turning by the bolt shanks inside the rubber. I assume it's best to tighten the nuts with the suspension in the normal position, i.e. weight on the wheels. With suspension motion, the bush will then "squirm" back and forth over a fairly small range of angle.