03-05-2022, 11:49 AM
As noted, the only way to get a squre headed locating bolt out without taking off the block is using some form of grinder. Been there done that. I now fit fixings with allen key heads there exclusivley.
Once youve got that out, you will be able to get the cam and bush out also without removal of the block, provided you loosen off the tapetts and take all the adjustment out of them - screw the adjuster as far down it will go. You will find that a one lobe will hit one tappet, but a gentle pull will have it out ok.
You will need the sump off so you can catch the centre cam bearing rollers.
The mod as described by Ian can be done when you take the gear off. Put the bearing back in the case, weigh up sizes and tap it something suitable using the case as a guide - you may want to open the case hole slightly to give clearance too, or just tap straight through both. I've seen it done both ways. As above use a cap head bolt. Be careful it isnt to long and nips the shaft before it tightens. And clean off the burrs.
When refitting the cam after your end float adjustment (done by lapping the gear on the cam - go for about 10-12tho clearance before wanging the nut up down to 3tho), to refit you will need to get one of the tappets out of the way, I forget which, but it becomes startlingly obvious as you assemble which one. To give sufficient clearance, use a generic valve spring compressor to lift the valve using the top of the head (not the valve) so as to lift the whole valve and not compress the valve spring. You will need to stick the centre bearing rollers to the cam with grease (which I freeze to make even stickier), coupled with a elastic band around them - this pushes off as the rollers engage in the race, you then snip it off.
I find it easier to do all this with the engine sat on its bellhousing vertically on the bench.
Have fun.
Once youve got that out, you will be able to get the cam and bush out also without removal of the block, provided you loosen off the tapetts and take all the adjustment out of them - screw the adjuster as far down it will go. You will find that a one lobe will hit one tappet, but a gentle pull will have it out ok.
You will need the sump off so you can catch the centre cam bearing rollers.
The mod as described by Ian can be done when you take the gear off. Put the bearing back in the case, weigh up sizes and tap it something suitable using the case as a guide - you may want to open the case hole slightly to give clearance too, or just tap straight through both. I've seen it done both ways. As above use a cap head bolt. Be careful it isnt to long and nips the shaft before it tightens. And clean off the burrs.
When refitting the cam after your end float adjustment (done by lapping the gear on the cam - go for about 10-12tho clearance before wanging the nut up down to 3tho), to refit you will need to get one of the tappets out of the way, I forget which, but it becomes startlingly obvious as you assemble which one. To give sufficient clearance, use a generic valve spring compressor to lift the valve using the top of the head (not the valve) so as to lift the whole valve and not compress the valve spring. You will need to stick the centre bearing rollers to the cam with grease (which I freeze to make even stickier), coupled with a elastic band around them - this pushes off as the rollers engage in the race, you then snip it off.
I find it easier to do all this with the engine sat on its bellhousing vertically on the bench.
Have fun.