17-03-2022, 03:14 PM
(This post was last modified: 17-03-2022, 03:30 PM by Hedd_Jones.)
I've always used the table below as a useful reference in viscosity terms. I'm not so sure about the equivalents you quote Jon
I use the bearing oil that I use on my steamers, which is a ISO460 compounded with tallow in my Austin rear axles.
Similarly I am happy to use straight (or up to GL4 - Non EP) SAE 140 gear oil in my bearings. These bearings are plain bronze. Rape compounding is also common, rape has a tendency to leave a residue on paint, and steamers run a total loss system, so it is less preferred by some (i.e me), but perfectly fine on yellow metals.
The compounding in simple terms makes the oil 'sticky', so for a lub oil it stays in the bearing or on the shaft or face longer. Those who know more about oils than I do tell me this is desirable in a gear oil also.
Obviously SAE220 gear oil is less viscous, i.e thinner. I wouldn't consider ISO460 or ISO220 a 'steam oil'. They are just lubricating oils.
Going more viscous to 'steam oil' so to ISO680 and ISO1000 gives you some real gloop. I use ISO1000 as cylinder lubricant on one of my steamers, ISO680 on the other. Again both compounded with Tallow.
I use the 1000 in the clutch release bearing on the 3 speed cars, and having read the comments on here, I believe would be perfectly suitable for the steering box, as I guess would the ISO680, its just not as gloopy. But the ISO680 would probably be broadly equivalent to the SAE250 Penrite product quoted here.
In cost terms, I buy in 25l drums (remember - total loss system). But I'm paying broadly £7/litre delivered. I hold 460. 680 and 1000 generally in my Oil stores, plus Classic 20/50 engine oil.....
A very clever man once gave me some very good advice. This is summarised thus - Any oil is better than no oil. The difference between the best oil for the application and a suitable oil for the application is so small its not worth worrying about.
My view is all the oil discussed here is suitable for steering boxes. I use grease!
Oil viscosity chart.jpg (Size: 55.34 KB / Downloads: 153)
I use the bearing oil that I use on my steamers, which is a ISO460 compounded with tallow in my Austin rear axles.
Similarly I am happy to use straight (or up to GL4 - Non EP) SAE 140 gear oil in my bearings. These bearings are plain bronze. Rape compounding is also common, rape has a tendency to leave a residue on paint, and steamers run a total loss system, so it is less preferred by some (i.e me), but perfectly fine on yellow metals.
The compounding in simple terms makes the oil 'sticky', so for a lub oil it stays in the bearing or on the shaft or face longer. Those who know more about oils than I do tell me this is desirable in a gear oil also.
Obviously SAE220 gear oil is less viscous, i.e thinner. I wouldn't consider ISO460 or ISO220 a 'steam oil'. They are just lubricating oils.
Going more viscous to 'steam oil' so to ISO680 and ISO1000 gives you some real gloop. I use ISO1000 as cylinder lubricant on one of my steamers, ISO680 on the other. Again both compounded with Tallow.
I use the 1000 in the clutch release bearing on the 3 speed cars, and having read the comments on here, I believe would be perfectly suitable for the steering box, as I guess would the ISO680, its just not as gloopy. But the ISO680 would probably be broadly equivalent to the SAE250 Penrite product quoted here.
In cost terms, I buy in 25l drums (remember - total loss system). But I'm paying broadly £7/litre delivered. I hold 460. 680 and 1000 generally in my Oil stores, plus Classic 20/50 engine oil.....
A very clever man once gave me some very good advice. This is summarised thus - Any oil is better than no oil. The difference between the best oil for the application and a suitable oil for the application is so small its not worth worrying about.
My view is all the oil discussed here is suitable for steering boxes. I use grease!
Oil viscosity chart.jpg (Size: 55.34 KB / Downloads: 153)