08-03-2022, 10:10 AM
(This post was last modified: 08-03-2022, 10:34 AM by John Cornforth.)
Hello all
I think several termination methods would be successful as long as there is both an electrical and a (vibration proof) mechanical connection. The acorns rely on mechanical connection via the copper wire, and I fear that the alternative of just poking a short wire up inside wouldn't give the same strength. I do remember fittings with a screw thread, which ought to give a better grip to the inside of the insulation. Maybe a tiny diameter but fairly long self tapper would do the job.
Traditional carbon leads were generally reckoned to have a limited lifespan before they broke up inside. Inductive leads (mid-sixties onwards) have a tiny spiral of thin wire wrapped around the inner core, they seem to last indefinitely. Termination methods are the same as for carbon.
An alternative is to keep the copper wires but fit discrete supresssor resistors/supressor caps at the plug ends. Usually about 5000 ohms. This is the method I use and it seems to provide enough suppresssion for "modern electrics" onboard equipment to function properly. I chose 4700 ohm 2 watt resistors soldered to the cable and the brass spade terminals. The spaces were filled with PTFE plumber's tape and the whole lot covered with adhesive lined heatshrink. This setup has worked for the last 15 years.
Photo to go with post above:
I think several termination methods would be successful as long as there is both an electrical and a (vibration proof) mechanical connection. The acorns rely on mechanical connection via the copper wire, and I fear that the alternative of just poking a short wire up inside wouldn't give the same strength. I do remember fittings with a screw thread, which ought to give a better grip to the inside of the insulation. Maybe a tiny diameter but fairly long self tapper would do the job.
Traditional carbon leads were generally reckoned to have a limited lifespan before they broke up inside. Inductive leads (mid-sixties onwards) have a tiny spiral of thin wire wrapped around the inner core, they seem to last indefinitely. Termination methods are the same as for carbon.
An alternative is to keep the copper wires but fit discrete supresssor resistors/supressor caps at the plug ends. Usually about 5000 ohms. This is the method I use and it seems to provide enough suppresssion for "modern electrics" onboard equipment to function properly. I chose 4700 ohm 2 watt resistors soldered to the cable and the brass spade terminals. The spaces were filled with PTFE plumber's tape and the whole lot covered with adhesive lined heatshrink. This setup has worked for the last 15 years.
Photo to go with post above: