01-08-2021, 10:37 PM
Well thanks to all so far...going through the minefield of nomenclature (way back in Feb).
When it came to better weather and possibility of painting I was inspired to strip the steering column, steering arm (big7) and drag link/steering side tube of old paint and shot blast ready to overhaul ball joints which I thought would be quickest way forward to getting back on road and ready for centenary, then at leisure make up a new steering side tube with rod ends. How wrong. First, though the balls seemed to be not too badly worn when measured by micrometer I then found hole in middle of one thrust bush (fixed) then had to use 14mm long reach socket to open out a cap that was too tight to easily slide over the tube (without paint) and turned up a rod to slightly open up distorted tube ends so that the thrust blocks (free) were indeed free and would move in the tube as they should; bought new repair kit of ball pins/thrust blocks /springs and just doing final assembly to check all now good when the thread I had put in the end of the caps to take an end play adjuster bolt and lock nut striped.
Went back to researching around again and came across, again, the article in Bristol A7 club by Ian Moorcraft (is he still around?).
He quotes a fundamental statement from the Austin Service Journal that the ball joint should have 1/64 to 3/64 clearance and is NOT under preeload from the springs as some articles would have one believe. (The article shows all the difficulties I had had to go through dismantling, though my bits were far less corroded)
So no real need for the adjuster bolt and I shall weld up hole.....relieved of angst on how to best repair.
So only really need shim washers for ruture wear.
Hopefully can now make progress after a week of faffing about.......should have gone for making new arm with rod ends!!
Dennis
When it came to better weather and possibility of painting I was inspired to strip the steering column, steering arm (big7) and drag link/steering side tube of old paint and shot blast ready to overhaul ball joints which I thought would be quickest way forward to getting back on road and ready for centenary, then at leisure make up a new steering side tube with rod ends. How wrong. First, though the balls seemed to be not too badly worn when measured by micrometer I then found hole in middle of one thrust bush (fixed) then had to use 14mm long reach socket to open out a cap that was too tight to easily slide over the tube (without paint) and turned up a rod to slightly open up distorted tube ends so that the thrust blocks (free) were indeed free and would move in the tube as they should; bought new repair kit of ball pins/thrust blocks /springs and just doing final assembly to check all now good when the thread I had put in the end of the caps to take an end play adjuster bolt and lock nut striped.
Went back to researching around again and came across, again, the article in Bristol A7 club by Ian Moorcraft (is he still around?).
He quotes a fundamental statement from the Austin Service Journal that the ball joint should have 1/64 to 3/64 clearance and is NOT under preeload from the springs as some articles would have one believe. (The article shows all the difficulties I had had to go through dismantling, though my bits were far less corroded)
So no real need for the adjuster bolt and I shall weld up hole.....relieved of angst on how to best repair.
So only really need shim washers for ruture wear.Hopefully can now make progress after a week of faffing about.......should have gone for making new arm with rod ends!!
Dennis