23-07-2021, 09:05 AM
Hi Mike
In an ideal world the big castellated nut can be tightened to take up the slack. There are two locking bolts stopping the nut from moving and have to be removed first.
Unfortunately the ball end of the torque tube is often worn and the torque tube bracket and castellated nut are a very poor fit. The torque tube bracket can be removed from the car but you may need to remove the pinion flange first (and the nut at the base of the bracket). The face of the bracket can be turned down to allow the castellated nut to progress further on the thread.
I’ve done this on both my current cars. I set up the torque tube bracket in the lathe and skimmed about 1/16” off the face. Even so getting the bracket to move smoothly on the ball is not always possible and some compromise is needed.
Hope this helps
Good luck
Howard
In an ideal world the big castellated nut can be tightened to take up the slack. There are two locking bolts stopping the nut from moving and have to be removed first.
Unfortunately the ball end of the torque tube is often worn and the torque tube bracket and castellated nut are a very poor fit. The torque tube bracket can be removed from the car but you may need to remove the pinion flange first (and the nut at the base of the bracket). The face of the bracket can be turned down to allow the castellated nut to progress further on the thread.
I’ve done this on both my current cars. I set up the torque tube bracket in the lathe and skimmed about 1/16” off the face. Even so getting the bracket to move smoothly on the ball is not always possible and some compromise is needed.
Hope this helps
Good luck
Howard