15-07-2021, 08:29 PM
Contrary to much of the advice given both in this thread and in others concerning oil leaks, I use a paper gasket lightly smeared with a proprietary silicon gasket sealer on both sides, making sure that both the upper surface of the crankcase and the lower surface of the block are perfectly clean when being assembled. I should add that my engine (being the 'non rubber' mounted type) is fully bolted down at all four mounting points as I suspect it was from the factory.
The engine leaks oil from the nearside rear (although this might be from the tappet cover) and a bit from the offside front just under the dynamo. However, oil consumption is in the region of 250 miles per pint, although this tends to vary depending on the type of work the car is doing. It seems to use more scrambling up and down hills than it does on long flat runs.
Given that the engine is running very sweetly and bowls along on the flat at between 40 to 45 mph as its natural gait, I am leaving things alone, convinced that the engines probably all leaked oil from new. However, I keep a piece of rag on the top of my toolbox in the garage to wipe the dribble of oil from the crankcase every time I do the pre-drive check of oil and water.
The engine leaks oil from the nearside rear (although this might be from the tappet cover) and a bit from the offside front just under the dynamo. However, oil consumption is in the region of 250 miles per pint, although this tends to vary depending on the type of work the car is doing. It seems to use more scrambling up and down hills than it does on long flat runs.
Given that the engine is running very sweetly and bowls along on the flat at between 40 to 45 mph as its natural gait, I am leaving things alone, convinced that the engines probably all leaked oil from new. However, I keep a piece of rag on the top of my toolbox in the garage to wipe the dribble of oil from the crankcase every time I do the pre-drive check of oil and water.