30-05-2021, 08:48 PM
Jslater can I refer you to a previous post entitled “Ruby B post picture”
In there I posted pictures of my Ruby rear wheel arches and how rotted they were. These are not the worst that members would have found but fairly typical of what is out there. I also described how I attempted to support the body to prevent any movement of the shell.
Like Martin pointed out I too removed the metal in small patches and repaired as I went piece by piece.
I was not an expert welder but found that a good weld could be achieved by tack welding at say 2” spaces, allowing things to cool then dress the welds, I then added more tacks in between those already laid, so that they are now 1” spaces. Once again dressed the welds and then kept repeating the process until there were no gaps at all and the whole section was welded. This practice helps reduce distortion, not perfect but does help. Whenever I tried to make a longer weld it warped like a fiddlers elbow!
But welding is the way in my opinion.
Cheers Denis S
In there I posted pictures of my Ruby rear wheel arches and how rotted they were. These are not the worst that members would have found but fairly typical of what is out there. I also described how I attempted to support the body to prevent any movement of the shell.
Like Martin pointed out I too removed the metal in small patches and repaired as I went piece by piece.
I was not an expert welder but found that a good weld could be achieved by tack welding at say 2” spaces, allowing things to cool then dress the welds, I then added more tacks in between those already laid, so that they are now 1” spaces. Once again dressed the welds and then kept repeating the process until there were no gaps at all and the whole section was welded. This practice helps reduce distortion, not perfect but does help. Whenever I tried to make a longer weld it warped like a fiddlers elbow!
But welding is the way in my opinion.
Cheers Denis S