02-04-2021, 09:11 AM
Hi RPM,
An article I submitted to this forum on 26/8/20 may be of interest if you do a search. Title: Brake, Brake, Brake.
It does deal with my efforts to better my hydraulic brakes for competition which in my view has been very successful. However the basic principles still apply even for a road car.
I would not use Saftek Green Gripper in a hydraulic system. IMHO it is not ideal for the pressures generated and resulted in problems. MM 'Mintex' linings from a good supplier such as ESM should be fine. They should be bedded in though (see my method in the article).
Your are using a single master cylinder so I suggest keeping the bore to that of the original MM system provided your rear slaves are also the same size as the MM system. The front slaves were the same bore for both 7 & 8" MM drums. However make sure you have the 7" masks and snales as they differ from the 8" ones.
I think there were two m/c bores. The smaller one will generate more pressure at the expence of more pedal travel.
Also if your non MM m/c is lower that your slave cylinders you may want to fit 10lb residual pressure valves in line to f & r.
Be carefull about changing ratios of brake pedal and (your) bell cranks as this will effect both force and pedal travel. Personally I dont like a long travel brake pedal but for the road a couple of inches should give some 'feel'.
It goes without saying all components need to be in first class condition. Any doubts and they should be changed for new. All bits are innexpensive. Properly set up hydraulics work very well so work through methodically to sort the issues and you will have excellent brakes.
Good luck.
Paul
An article I submitted to this forum on 26/8/20 may be of interest if you do a search. Title: Brake, Brake, Brake.
It does deal with my efforts to better my hydraulic brakes for competition which in my view has been very successful. However the basic principles still apply even for a road car.
I would not use Saftek Green Gripper in a hydraulic system. IMHO it is not ideal for the pressures generated and resulted in problems. MM 'Mintex' linings from a good supplier such as ESM should be fine. They should be bedded in though (see my method in the article).
Your are using a single master cylinder so I suggest keeping the bore to that of the original MM system provided your rear slaves are also the same size as the MM system. The front slaves were the same bore for both 7 & 8" MM drums. However make sure you have the 7" masks and snales as they differ from the 8" ones.
I think there were two m/c bores. The smaller one will generate more pressure at the expence of more pedal travel.
Also if your non MM m/c is lower that your slave cylinders you may want to fit 10lb residual pressure valves in line to f & r.
Be carefull about changing ratios of brake pedal and (your) bell cranks as this will effect both force and pedal travel. Personally I dont like a long travel brake pedal but for the road a couple of inches should give some 'feel'.
It goes without saying all components need to be in first class condition. Any doubts and they should be changed for new. All bits are innexpensive. Properly set up hydraulics work very well so work through methodically to sort the issues and you will have excellent brakes.
Good luck.
Paul