02-03-2021, 01:09 PM
Thank you all for your responses, I have yet to try some of the suggestions to do with castor angle, shock absorber tension etc because the car is on stands in the workshop while I deal with the column.
I mentioned that I had previously had a new inner column fitted to my outer column. With everything spotlessly clean and dry I found that the outer bottom bush was a little tight on the inner, just above the worm. Lubricating helped but a whip over with emery seemed to make a lot of difference.
I resolved that despite opinions differing on the use of thrust bearings etc, I would try it, since it does not involve much expense and no irreversible mechanical changes. There were other suggestions which were either beyond my turning skills or I found other ways to resolve, so in case it is of interest or use to someone else here is where I are.
I trawled through the Simply Bearings site and found everything I needed, in almost every case in a usable size. Needle roller thrust bearings, bronze bush, and snap rings, which I had not known about before.
I had managed to remove the wheel from the drop arm with a three leg puller, turn it one sector and reassemble, I dont think it had been off before.
DSCN6875.jpg (Size: 66.83 KB / Downloads: 272)
The available top thrust needle bearing is a perfect fit on the inner and existing bearing faces
DSCN6876.jpg (Size: 66.49 KB / Downloads: 272)
Here it is fitted.
DSCN6878.jpg (Size: 59.12 KB / Downloads: 272)
Lower bearing and spacer ring
DSCN6879.jpg (Size: 62.45 KB / Downloads: 272)
Fitted
DSCN6883.jpg (Size: 58.11 KB / Downloads: 272)
Outer column top, bush and snap ring
DSCN6880.jpg (Size: 59.54 KB / Downloads: 272)
This is the snap ring inserted into the outer which will retain the felt
DSCN6881.jpg (Size: 39.79 KB / Downloads: 272)
Steering wheel snap ring and bush in place
DSCN6885.jpg (Size: 66.52 KB / Downloads: 264)
With the steering column screw into the box all end float could be removed without any binding when turning the steering wheel. The column is now approx. 7mm further out of the box, so I had to drill a shallow hole to accommodate the end of the locking peg.
The thrust button had already been shimmed correctly, so the wheel and cover were put on and adjusted. I used Penrite steering box lub. There is free turning with about 1/64" play on the end of the drop arm. If I spin the steering wheel I can keep it going by pressing on the drop arm for about ¼ of a turn of the arm. I hope this will be a good adjustment once its all back in the car. I have a rebuilt engine to fit in place of the previous military crankcase item, this needs a longer prop shaft and returning the floor to its original configuration, so it will be a little while until I can try it all out.
Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions both online and offline.
I mentioned that I had previously had a new inner column fitted to my outer column. With everything spotlessly clean and dry I found that the outer bottom bush was a little tight on the inner, just above the worm. Lubricating helped but a whip over with emery seemed to make a lot of difference.
I resolved that despite opinions differing on the use of thrust bearings etc, I would try it, since it does not involve much expense and no irreversible mechanical changes. There were other suggestions which were either beyond my turning skills or I found other ways to resolve, so in case it is of interest or use to someone else here is where I are.
I trawled through the Simply Bearings site and found everything I needed, in almost every case in a usable size. Needle roller thrust bearings, bronze bush, and snap rings, which I had not known about before.
I had managed to remove the wheel from the drop arm with a three leg puller, turn it one sector and reassemble, I dont think it had been off before.
DSCN6875.jpg (Size: 66.83 KB / Downloads: 272)
The available top thrust needle bearing is a perfect fit on the inner and existing bearing faces
DSCN6876.jpg (Size: 66.49 KB / Downloads: 272)
Here it is fitted.
DSCN6878.jpg (Size: 59.12 KB / Downloads: 272)
Lower bearing and spacer ring
DSCN6879.jpg (Size: 62.45 KB / Downloads: 272)
Fitted
DSCN6883.jpg (Size: 58.11 KB / Downloads: 272)
Outer column top, bush and snap ring
DSCN6880.jpg (Size: 59.54 KB / Downloads: 272)
This is the snap ring inserted into the outer which will retain the felt
DSCN6881.jpg (Size: 39.79 KB / Downloads: 272)
Steering wheel snap ring and bush in place
DSCN6885.jpg (Size: 66.52 KB / Downloads: 264)
With the steering column screw into the box all end float could be removed without any binding when turning the steering wheel. The column is now approx. 7mm further out of the box, so I had to drill a shallow hole to accommodate the end of the locking peg.
The thrust button had already been shimmed correctly, so the wheel and cover were put on and adjusted. I used Penrite steering box lub. There is free turning with about 1/64" play on the end of the drop arm. If I spin the steering wheel I can keep it going by pressing on the drop arm for about ¼ of a turn of the arm. I hope this will be a good adjustment once its all back in the car. I have a rebuilt engine to fit in place of the previous military crankcase item, this needs a longer prop shaft and returning the floor to its original configuration, so it will be a little while until I can try it all out.
Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions both online and offline.