17-02-2021, 10:29 PM
first step, the first tool every idiot buys. but the ideal tool for this job. a 4lb lump hammer. thats the short handle with square head.
turn the chassis upside-down. and put something solid underneath it, so the force of the hammer isnt lost. i use cut-offs from railway sleapers.
personally i remove the nut from what im hitting, reason why. if you leave the nut on and the bolt doesnt move after a few blows, the thread is impacted sideways and ruined anyway. if your aim is true with enough force the through bolt will go first blow with no thread damage. if you have to hit it a couple of times, and damage the thread. it can usually be rescued with a file and a dye.
the U bolts are harder to get, as the chassis member is in the way. i use a brass drift?
as for the springs.
again with the chassis upside-down, ideally on the lawn to stop it moving. use plenty of penetrating fluid, and hit the springs on all 4 sides. plenty of times. get the fluid good and mashed into the rust. you will feel you have freed everything up, but they will still need some heavy blows with the hammer.
i leave the bushes in the rear of the spring. and leave the 1/2 inch pin in them. a bit of tape to stop things moving wilst you are hitting it.
then hit the spring pin eye with the 4 lb hammer, so you are knocking the spring from the chassis.
the springs will come out. but as you are only hitting the bottom leaf spring, alot of force is on the rivet that holds the springs together. so it may eventually break. but at least the springs will come out.
there you go, 30 years of working on austin 7 spares. getting them ready for sale.
tony
turn the chassis upside-down. and put something solid underneath it, so the force of the hammer isnt lost. i use cut-offs from railway sleapers.
personally i remove the nut from what im hitting, reason why. if you leave the nut on and the bolt doesnt move after a few blows, the thread is impacted sideways and ruined anyway. if your aim is true with enough force the through bolt will go first blow with no thread damage. if you have to hit it a couple of times, and damage the thread. it can usually be rescued with a file and a dye.
the U bolts are harder to get, as the chassis member is in the way. i use a brass drift?
as for the springs.
again with the chassis upside-down, ideally on the lawn to stop it moving. use plenty of penetrating fluid, and hit the springs on all 4 sides. plenty of times. get the fluid good and mashed into the rust. you will feel you have freed everything up, but they will still need some heavy blows with the hammer.
i leave the bushes in the rear of the spring. and leave the 1/2 inch pin in them. a bit of tape to stop things moving wilst you are hitting it.
then hit the spring pin eye with the 4 lb hammer, so you are knocking the spring from the chassis.
the springs will come out. but as you are only hitting the bottom leaf spring, alot of force is on the rivet that holds the springs together. so it may eventually break. but at least the springs will come out.
there you go, 30 years of working on austin 7 spares. getting them ready for sale.
tony