22-01-2018, 01:01 AM
(21-01-2018, 06:55 PM)Steve kay Wrote: I have been considering the opposite action, that is uncoupling.Steve I rather like uncoupled brakes in the chummy, one can alternate down a very steep hill to cool them, and using rear only are adequate for most stops. On the Apex prototype however, it being also uncoupled, I would consider the continuous rear cable modification.
When I was young and athletic, uncoupled brakes on an Ulster were vital for trialling, it allowed safe steering when coming backwards down slippery and rutted sections.
Competition is now gentle nav rallying and autosoloing in the Ruby. It might just be me, but there are widespread refernces to a degree of front brake binding when on full lock, part of the attempt to compensate for the axle movement when vigorously braking in a straight line. Day to day one doesn't
notice this, trying to wiggle-woggle as quickly as possible round the bollards it becomes intrusive. Bowdenex front brakes avoid the binding, but are difficult to find on ebay, and not offered by cherished suppliers. So I am wondering if merely uncoupling front and rear might be helpful. Any thuoghts?
The 38 ruby has full girling coupled rod brakes and are the best I have experienced. If your ruby has the girling type fronts, you too can have good brakes. Bowden cable quick fix is no substitute for the radius cups, king pins, shackles, etc being in top condition.
My friend and I raced a sports last year with the above brake gear in good nick, and the brakes were RUBBISH. I put this down to the internal friction in the bowden cables.
Pay particular attention to the angle of the front brake levers being JUST forward of vertical, the balls being UNDER the king pin and a slight slack in the cable. cheers Russell