Actually, you don't necessarily need a calibrated leak down tester.
I have one in my toolbox I made up years ago from a selection of spark plug bases [14mm/18mm/taper seat/extra long reach etc.] with suitable brass compression fittings silver soldered into them, a length of nylon air tubing, a screw down air tap and fittings to suit your air hose and the nylon tubing.
Gives a rapid go/no go test - no leaks into the coolant, no audible hissing at the intake or exhaust, minimal leakage out of the dipstick hole with all other crankcase ventilation sealed. The tap is handy because you can gently let the cylinder pressurise so it won't blow the engine over if you're not quite on TDC, important with automatics because you can't lock the crank by putting them in gear, park brake on.
We only used the calibrated leak down tester for dubious warranty jobs when the Service Engineers wanted a quantitative reading.
I have one in my toolbox I made up years ago from a selection of spark plug bases [14mm/18mm/taper seat/extra long reach etc.] with suitable brass compression fittings silver soldered into them, a length of nylon air tubing, a screw down air tap and fittings to suit your air hose and the nylon tubing.
Gives a rapid go/no go test - no leaks into the coolant, no audible hissing at the intake or exhaust, minimal leakage out of the dipstick hole with all other crankcase ventilation sealed. The tap is handy because you can gently let the cylinder pressurise so it won't blow the engine over if you're not quite on TDC, important with automatics because you can't lock the crank by putting them in gear, park brake on.
We only used the calibrated leak down tester for dubious warranty jobs when the Service Engineers wanted a quantitative reading.