Towing

[David.H]

First of all, despite these rigid tow bars being available with just a loop at either end so they can be attached to a "so called towing ring" with the equivalent of an exhaust clamp - you do so at your own peril. As I have already stated these fixed or screw-in rings are NOT for towing the vehicle. They are to secure it in transit, either on a trailer or a car transporter. Read the advice in your owner's handbook. I would only ever contemplate using a rigid (or spring damped) towing bar that had a proper caravan style towing hitch at one end,  fixed to the drawing vehicle via a 50mm ball and an approved tow-bar.

As far as an Austin Seven is concerned, I would only sanction such an action in a dire emergency. It would be far better to recover the car by other means but if you have to do it the best place would be to attach to the front axle beam between the radius arm and the damper mountings, but do so WITH EXTREME CARE, making sure that the Driver of the towing car knows what they are doing as well as whoever is steering the Austin. Any snatching or excessive braking could well damage what you're trying to salvage. All large proportion of that effort will be taken by the front spring, shackles and radius arm to cross member mounting point, and the A7 is not as tough as an Abrams M1A1 tank!

As RR says...read the manual. My current "modern"car says the screw in eye can be used for a rigid bar (being towed...not towing with), the welded on loops are indeed for lashing down.
For years I used a condemned(!) nylon climbing rope as a tow rope (nice & springy). It was frequently used... including for towing another Twin Cam Cortina Mk2 600 miles or so across Afghanistan during the 1968 London to Sydney Marathon at speeds that I shudder to remember. The stage was ~ 1800 miles from Teheran to Kabul (depending on the route chosen - we went via Kandahar) and we had a target time of 23 hours. Despite the towing we did it in 26 hours! I would not have liked to do that on a rigid bar!