18-10-2020, 03:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-10-2020, 03:03 PM by Stuart Giles.)
I think almost everyone who has done work on a Seven will have discovered some hideous bodges. Here's a couple from motors I've had cause to work on.
From the state of the flywheel and crank tapers, it was obvious that the flywheel had come loose on this one. Do you lap the two together and keep an eye on the gap between the flywheel and thrower? no, you splurge Araldite all over the taper, tighten the nut and hope for the best.
Front bearing retaining flange missing? replace with a durable steel version? why do this when you can replace the rear main with a stepped roller bearing -of course now the crank can float backwards and forwards because there's nothing positively locating it, but hey! Not so visible in this crankcase is the crack (just above the web between 2 and 3 cylinders) where a Lumiweld/ snake oil low temp ali rod repair made to the centre cam bearing housing has failed again.
One I don't have a photo of as it pre dates digital photography, is when I stripped a motor to find that someone had made a copper foil patch for a blown head gasket. This had been let in over the fire ring area of the gasket and also had what seemed like half a tube of red Hermatite spread around/over it, which as it had gone up the stud holes, made removing the cylinder head an interesting experience.
Getting back to the original post, I would have to investigate that scoring, if it is caused by the gudgeon pin, the small end locating bolt may have snapped or dropped out, Which will cause a rod failure before too long. If it is a broken ring(s) problem it is likely to result in a piston failure as the lands collapse caused by the loose bits of piston ring.
From the state of the flywheel and crank tapers, it was obvious that the flywheel had come loose on this one. Do you lap the two together and keep an eye on the gap between the flywheel and thrower? no, you splurge Araldite all over the taper, tighten the nut and hope for the best.
Front bearing retaining flange missing? replace with a durable steel version? why do this when you can replace the rear main with a stepped roller bearing -of course now the crank can float backwards and forwards because there's nothing positively locating it, but hey! Not so visible in this crankcase is the crack (just above the web between 2 and 3 cylinders) where a Lumiweld/ snake oil low temp ali rod repair made to the centre cam bearing housing has failed again.
One I don't have a photo of as it pre dates digital photography, is when I stripped a motor to find that someone had made a copper foil patch for a blown head gasket. This had been let in over the fire ring area of the gasket and also had what seemed like half a tube of red Hermatite spread around/over it, which as it had gone up the stud holes, made removing the cylinder head an interesting experience.
Getting back to the original post, I would have to investigate that scoring, if it is caused by the gudgeon pin, the small end locating bolt may have snapped or dropped out, Which will cause a rod failure before too long. If it is a broken ring(s) problem it is likely to result in a piston failure as the lands collapse caused by the loose bits of piston ring.