30-08-2020, 10:32 AM
Hello John, hopefully there's an attached pic of how I did the leads on our Fourteen.
The originals were rubber insulated rather than braided, (or rather the perished remains of rubber insulated) HT cable and were soldered- I am convinced they were originals because the spade [duckbill] ends were number stamped 1 to 6.
For this particular car, matt finished PVC (?) insulated cable which replicates the original look was used. I tinned 3mm or so of the wire core , pushed it through the holes, soldered it to the duckbill using a very large soldering iron and minimal 60/40 solder then slipped heat shrink over the end just because the originals appeared to have the remains of a rubber sleeve in the same position.
Back in the day when we used to do replacement HT leads in the shop it was customary to strip 10mm or so of insulation, fan it out and turn it back over the cable and then crimp the end termination on rather than relying on the sharp point in the terminal to pierce the insulation. I found without the correct crimping dies, which no one seemed to have, it was very difficult to get the cosmetically presentable crimp I was entirely happy with.
The originals were rubber insulated rather than braided, (or rather the perished remains of rubber insulated) HT cable and were soldered- I am convinced they were originals because the spade [duckbill] ends were number stamped 1 to 6.
For this particular car, matt finished PVC (?) insulated cable which replicates the original look was used. I tinned 3mm or so of the wire core , pushed it through the holes, soldered it to the duckbill using a very large soldering iron and minimal 60/40 solder then slipped heat shrink over the end just because the originals appeared to have the remains of a rubber sleeve in the same position.
Back in the day when we used to do replacement HT leads in the shop it was customary to strip 10mm or so of insulation, fan it out and turn it back over the cable and then crimp the end termination on rather than relying on the sharp point in the terminal to pierce the insulation. I found without the correct crimping dies, which no one seemed to have, it was very difficult to get the cosmetically presentable crimp I was entirely happy with.