04-07-2020, 08:18 PM
Colin, I have used a trapezoid shim as you wrote, squiggled together with "Liquid Metal" - works OK for a few thousand miles, but gave up in the end. I then a "re-metaled" the haft shaft where I had made up the taper with mild steel weld, filled the woodruff key (as a crack had started at that point) and re-machined a new one on the other side. That seems to be going much better and have not had to re-tighten the hub nut since. Plus 1 for some sort of Locktite product on the taper, make sure you have a good hub puller and good thread on the hub first !!
As for split pins, you could use a much smaller split pin if only half a hole is visible, its the taper that transmits the power, not the nut, not the split pin, not the woodruff key. The woodruff key is only there to stop the shaft rotating on the hub whilst you tighten the nut.
As for split pins, you could use a much smaller split pin if only half a hole is visible, its the taper that transmits the power, not the nut, not the split pin, not the woodruff key. The woodruff key is only there to stop the shaft rotating on the hub whilst you tighten the nut.