12-05-2020, 10:59 AM
Lots of excellent advice above.
I've done my share of removing recalcitrant studs in various places, so my 20 cents worth:
1.Patience is a virtue, but accept that no matter how careful or adept you are there are some studs that will snap off just to spite you.
2. Use a decent stud extractor, I find the Sealey/Koken roller type is the best. The cam ones like the Sealey VS7232 will lead to disappointment. An oxy-acetylene kit for localised intense heat is a great help if you can access it.
3. Trying to go clockwise on the stud first to crack it loose is sound advice, as is backwards/forwards as it unscrews esp. back off if it starts to bind again.
4. Balance the force you are exerting on the extractor, I prefer to use a tee handle.
5. Use a quality penetrating fluid, most of us have our favourite. Even the old timers' trick of heating the stud then melting a candle against it where it threads into the block [allowing the melted wax to capillary into the thread] often works.
6. If you snap a stud, drill guides [even mild steel ones] are your friend.
7. If you have the kit and the nerve, sacrificing the stud by cutting it down to a stub and arc welding a clearance drilled nut on it [holding the nut down hard on the face of the block] allowing it to cool and then trying it with a spanner is worth a shot.
8. At all cost, avoid the temptation to use traditional ezy-outs on the remnants of badly seized studs, trust me it will end in tears![[Image: blush.png]](https://www.austinsevenfriends.co.uk/forum/images/smilies/blush.png)
The only ones worth trying are the splined ones like your Sealey AK724, I have a set of SnapOn/Blue Point spline type ones and even they have let me down once or twice...
I've done my share of removing recalcitrant studs in various places, so my 20 cents worth:
1.Patience is a virtue, but accept that no matter how careful or adept you are there are some studs that will snap off just to spite you.
2. Use a decent stud extractor, I find the Sealey/Koken roller type is the best. The cam ones like the Sealey VS7232 will lead to disappointment. An oxy-acetylene kit for localised intense heat is a great help if you can access it.
3. Trying to go clockwise on the stud first to crack it loose is sound advice, as is backwards/forwards as it unscrews esp. back off if it starts to bind again.
4. Balance the force you are exerting on the extractor, I prefer to use a tee handle.
5. Use a quality penetrating fluid, most of us have our favourite. Even the old timers' trick of heating the stud then melting a candle against it where it threads into the block [allowing the melted wax to capillary into the thread] often works.
6. If you snap a stud, drill guides [even mild steel ones] are your friend.
7. If you have the kit and the nerve, sacrificing the stud by cutting it down to a stub and arc welding a clearance drilled nut on it [holding the nut down hard on the face of the block] allowing it to cool and then trying it with a spanner is worth a shot.
8. At all cost, avoid the temptation to use traditional ezy-outs on the remnants of badly seized studs, trust me it will end in tears
The only ones worth trying are the splined ones like your Sealey AK724, I have a set of SnapOn/Blue Point spline type ones and even they have let me down once or twice...