Yes - the way I approached it was a dab of weld on the worn side of the hole and a bit of deft work with grinder/ files to restore it to flatness and the correct amount of advance (which I confirmed initially using a DTI against the side of the rotor arm).
You'll need to dismantle the unit to do this properly I think.
It's just as likely Peter that it's a plate from a different variant - there were hundreds of DK4's with different settings and most of the bits are interchangeable.
On a sporting engine you might get away with, say, 10 deg at distributor, but in my book 15 is too much and will put your crank under definite strain.
You'll need to dismantle the unit to do this properly I think.
It's just as likely Peter that it's a plate from a different variant - there were hundreds of DK4's with different settings and most of the bits are interchangeable.
On a sporting engine you might get away with, say, 10 deg at distributor, but in my book 15 is too much and will put your crank under definite strain.