15-08-2019, 01:40 AM
Tab washers have to be just the right hardness and totally free of burrs. Reused in rotating engine risk of lugs breaking off.
Cotter pins a pain. Some are too springy. And bits can break off softer ones. Spring washers come in two types, some with vicious burrs. This in particular confuses torque wrench, gouges metal, and eccentrically loads and stresses bolt, undesirable where strength marginal as gudgeon clamp. One virtue of original bolts full 5/16 and very accurately locate halves. But rare to find any not stretched and may have suffered hammering from a run b.e. On my car the no of tightening sequences to prcisely fit b.es. over the decades must be approaching the cycles for fatigue failure! Completely rigid joints fully tightend do not loosen. Spring washers are for less critical situations where tension eases off. I ran my Austin and Jowett for decades with no locks. Essential that thread does not bottom, radius does not bind etc.
Cotter pins a pain. Some are too springy. And bits can break off softer ones. Spring washers come in two types, some with vicious burrs. This in particular confuses torque wrench, gouges metal, and eccentrically loads and stresses bolt, undesirable where strength marginal as gudgeon clamp. One virtue of original bolts full 5/16 and very accurately locate halves. But rare to find any not stretched and may have suffered hammering from a run b.e. On my car the no of tightening sequences to prcisely fit b.es. over the decades must be approaching the cycles for fatigue failure! Completely rigid joints fully tightend do not loosen. Spring washers are for less critical situations where tension eases off. I ran my Austin and Jowett for decades with no locks. Essential that thread does not bottom, radius does not bind etc.