05-08-2019, 09:33 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-08-2019, 09:38 PM by Colin Wilks.)
Page 176 of the Companion seems to provide a good recipe for fitting king pins:
"1. King pins must be a tight fit in the axle eyes"
"2. King pin cotters should be HT steel and must be kept tight"
"3. Bushes must be properly reamed in line with a parallel sided reamer"
"4. Vertical movement of the stub axles must be eliminated using thrust washers and a spacer if necessary"
Given regular greasing I think following these points should ensure the pins have little tendency to rotate in the axle.
David Stepney's advice about checking the cotter nuts don't move rather than giving them a nip is gold (and like all good advice, obvious when you think it through). When I got the car earlier this year the cotter nuts moved about a flat with little effort. They were coated in a thick layer of paint so I don't think had ever been tightened since installation, assuming the painting was done at the same time. My error last week was to think that another little nip wouldn't hurt. Lesson learnt!
"1. King pins must be a tight fit in the axle eyes"
"2. King pin cotters should be HT steel and must be kept tight"
"3. Bushes must be properly reamed in line with a parallel sided reamer"
"4. Vertical movement of the stub axles must be eliminated using thrust washers and a spacer if necessary"
Given regular greasing I think following these points should ensure the pins have little tendency to rotate in the axle.
David Stepney's advice about checking the cotter nuts don't move rather than giving them a nip is gold (and like all good advice, obvious when you think it through). When I got the car earlier this year the cotter nuts moved about a flat with little effort. They were coated in a thick layer of paint so I don't think had ever been tightened since installation, assuming the painting was done at the same time. My error last week was to think that another little nip wouldn't hurt. Lesson learnt!