21-04-2019, 11:42 PM
(This post was last modified: 22-04-2019, 12:19 AM by Mark Atkinson.)
Hello Steve,
It was good to see you on Friday, what a glorious day we had. Hopefully, by the same time next year she will be up and running.
Regards, Mark.
Hello Mike,
Thank you for your kind comments, but, I am very much the amateur, what you see is my considered approach to making something and following a processes. As Ian has commented here, it is not a black art and you can think your way through it. The problem I have is that it takes me quite a long time to turn out these parts, whereas a skilled man would probably be much quicker and more assured.
All the best, Mark.
Hello Greig,
Yes, she does have a purposeful stance, looking at the extant car it has a real presence sitting here in the corner of my garage.
I did not find the original car, only the odd surviving bit, like the remnant of her bonnet with the name still painted on, this car is derived from period pictures, of which I have a sufficient spread to give me a detailed picture of the original. However, in some areas I had to join the dots between known parts of the car.
Regards, Mark.
Hello Bob,
Yes, I both anneal the metal before working it and again as it begins to harden during the processes. It does depend on what grade of aluminium used as to how much annealing is required.
I remember seeing an engine cowling from a crashed WW1 rotary engined aircraft which was recovered from the ground in modern times, and, without annealing, it was quite quickly teased back into shape from its crushed state. but that appeared to be a very pure aluminium, perhaps akin to a modern T1000.
I have used both 1000 and 2000 grade for bodywork here, but for the seats, floor and transmission used T6000, which is very hard taking a considerable amount of energy to form, it is more like working steel!
All the best, Mark.
It was good to see you on Friday, what a glorious day we had. Hopefully, by the same time next year she will be up and running.
Regards, Mark.
Hello Mike,
Thank you for your kind comments, but, I am very much the amateur, what you see is my considered approach to making something and following a processes. As Ian has commented here, it is not a black art and you can think your way through it. The problem I have is that it takes me quite a long time to turn out these parts, whereas a skilled man would probably be much quicker and more assured.
All the best, Mark.
Hello Greig,
Yes, she does have a purposeful stance, looking at the extant car it has a real presence sitting here in the corner of my garage.
I did not find the original car, only the odd surviving bit, like the remnant of her bonnet with the name still painted on, this car is derived from period pictures, of which I have a sufficient spread to give me a detailed picture of the original. However, in some areas I had to join the dots between known parts of the car.
Regards, Mark.
Hello Bob,
Yes, I both anneal the metal before working it and again as it begins to harden during the processes. It does depend on what grade of aluminium used as to how much annealing is required.
I remember seeing an engine cowling from a crashed WW1 rotary engined aircraft which was recovered from the ground in modern times, and, without annealing, it was quite quickly teased back into shape from its crushed state. but that appeared to be a very pure aluminium, perhaps akin to a modern T1000.
I have used both 1000 and 2000 grade for bodywork here, but for the seats, floor and transmission used T6000, which is very hard taking a considerable amount of energy to form, it is more like working steel!
All the best, Mark.