26-02-2019, 11:42 AM
When fitting front crank bearing I always polish out the bore of the bearings with an emery flap wheel so they are a sliding fit on the crank they
are not going to move clamped by a timing gear and a 5/8 dog bolt, do not reduce the crank or you will have a loose fit timing gear.
The rear bearing needs to be a light press fit, anything less use loctite bearing fit, I don't use thrust front bearing instead I use a NMJ 1 1/8 next
to the crank this is a double track self aligning bearing and a single track MJ 1 1/8 this gives you a triple ball set up with no preload but adequate thrust capability. I have been using this set up in engines with heavy clutch springs and running up to 7500rpm for the last 10yrs
with no problems just another alternative to thrust bearings.
Terry.
are not going to move clamped by a timing gear and a 5/8 dog bolt, do not reduce the crank or you will have a loose fit timing gear.
The rear bearing needs to be a light press fit, anything less use loctite bearing fit, I don't use thrust front bearing instead I use a NMJ 1 1/8 next
to the crank this is a double track self aligning bearing and a single track MJ 1 1/8 this gives you a triple ball set up with no preload but adequate thrust capability. I have been using this set up in engines with heavy clutch springs and running up to 7500rpm for the last 10yrs
with no problems just another alternative to thrust bearings.
Terry.