18-12-2018, 11:41 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-12-2018, 11:57 PM by Zetomagneto.)
(18-12-2018, 08:59 PM)dickie65 Wrote: Hi,
I have a couple of suggestions.
If you drive the car hard racing starts etc. it is worth fitting a half set of double clutch springs.
It increases clamp pressure but is still OK for road use.
The other thing I do when changing the linings is to put some gasket goo on all the rivets where they pass through the flywheel.
This will prevent oil going through the rivet holes as it gets spun out of the rear main bearing and the onto the clutch linings.
( I discovered this by having to take the engine out not long after new linings had been fitted, oil had just started to soak the lining around the rivets )
I now use a lip seal on the crank rear main as well, this needs to have a speedy seal fitted to the flywheel to stop the new seal being torn up.
Dickie, you mean a speedi sleeve available from most bearing specialist
(18-12-2018, 03:18 PM)UAllAlloyCup Wrote: The riveting is easy with two persons, one to holdBill, there is a proper set which nicely rolls the rivet shank, you don’t want to start off by splitting the rivet, it reduces it’s clamping ability and looks unsightly
the early type flywheel on an anvil stud matching the head of the rivet.
Grind a steel or brass rod with a shaped end to fit into
The open rivet end to splay it. When opened up a bit use
the rounded end of a small ball pein hammer to spread the rivet more
Then use the other end of the hammer to flatten the rivet.
Repeat this procedure on the pressure plate.
I’m about to check the setting of the clutch levers
But this can only be done with the flywheel fitted to the crank.
Regards
Bill G