I've been making a wooden seat base for my special. The base is wood recycled from an old set of drawers. I stripped a Ruby seat then cut about a 2 inch slice down the middle and welded it back together. I did the same with the base frame part so I can retain the forward/backwards slide and locking mechanism. I won't retain the tipping though. I welded a strap across the back and the seat frame is bolted to the floor with four bolts, one passing through the crossmember and the other three will be held with a L shaped strap with nuts welded to it to spread the load under the wood floor.
![[Image: main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_it...alNumber=1]](http://www.asciimation.co.nz/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=11529&g2_serialNumber=1)
It is necessary to slide since there isn't much room between the seat and the wheel and the sides of the car which are high.
Because of the high side I am also adding a small step which will go just in front of the rear wing. It will have a steel strap back to the rear crossmember which is conveniently just in the right place. I am trying to cast the top of the step in aluminium. I have a wooden pattern and am experimenting with gluing on details I have 3d printed. My first experiment went wrong. The 3D printed part, the Austin wings logo, was too complex and the casting sand couldn't pick up all the detail. I pressed on anyway (as I need the practice in casting again) but then the pour went wrong and the mold exploded! Not enough venting and possibly too damp casting sand. Molten aluminium everywhere! Luckily I was wearing all the right gear and apart from a tiny drop that went down the back of my gloves I was fine.
I am now 3D printing a simpler pattern. This was the first go but I am redoing it with better spacing between the wheel and wings and with more draft on it.
![[Image: main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_it...alNumber=1]](http://www.asciimation.co.nz/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=11526&g2_serialNumber=1)
It's a bit Batman!
Oh, I also got in touch with Andy Bird and after sorting out NZ to UK bank payments managed to order some close ratio gears. I want to replace all the springs and balls in the synchros. Can someone tell me how many I actually need? The manuals don't seem to say. I am guessing 3 or 4 per synchro? I haven't taken one apart yet to see! I'll replace the selector balls and springs too I guess.
Simon
It is necessary to slide since there isn't much room between the seat and the wheel and the sides of the car which are high.
Because of the high side I am also adding a small step which will go just in front of the rear wing. It will have a steel strap back to the rear crossmember which is conveniently just in the right place. I am trying to cast the top of the step in aluminium. I have a wooden pattern and am experimenting with gluing on details I have 3d printed. My first experiment went wrong. The 3D printed part, the Austin wings logo, was too complex and the casting sand couldn't pick up all the detail. I pressed on anyway (as I need the practice in casting again) but then the pour went wrong and the mold exploded! Not enough venting and possibly too damp casting sand. Molten aluminium everywhere! Luckily I was wearing all the right gear and apart from a tiny drop that went down the back of my gloves I was fine.
I am now 3D printing a simpler pattern. This was the first go but I am redoing it with better spacing between the wheel and wings and with more draft on it.
It's a bit Batman!
Oh, I also got in touch with Andy Bird and after sorting out NZ to UK bank payments managed to order some close ratio gears. I want to replace all the springs and balls in the synchros. Can someone tell me how many I actually need? The manuals don't seem to say. I am guessing 3 or 4 per synchro? I haven't taken one apart yet to see! I'll replace the selector balls and springs too I guess.
Simon