Deep finned aluminium sump

[Zetomagneto]

I run 'Nippy' aluminium sumps on both my Nippy and Ulster rep.
The engine won't go in (my cars) with the sump on - I drop it in without and then add the sump in situ. Which is a bit of a fiddle but do-able.

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Does fitting a deep finned aluminium sump impede the fitting of a Opal engine ( is it inclined to catch up whilst fitting the engine) .
Can engine and gearbox be fitted in one piece with deep sump attached.
Thanks for your support.

Derek, why do do you want a deep sump on your Opal?  

Charles

If I may throw in my tuppence worth, a 6-pint alloy sump is nice on a long run (basically storing spare oil in the pan rather than carrying it in the boot). Also imparts considerable stiffness to the crankcase I think.

It does take a mighty long time to warm up though. I recently measured oil temp over an hour and a half run, pootling down country lanes in Autumnal weather; it took over an hour to peak and then only at 64 C. You want to be really careful if you are the 'flying start' type. I haven't yet measured it under 'sportier' driving conditions (running in at present). It's widely held - on internet 'fora' (I read Latin too, and ancient Greek to boot) at least - that oil temp should be at least 90 - 100C in order to 'burn off' water, otherwise in conjunction with other combustion by-products it forms acid in your sump. I'm not 100% convinced about that but for sure the vast majority of engine wear / damage occurs with cold oil at start up.

Yes oil needs to get up to temp, I have often considered fitting a thermostat in the top hose to at least get the engine to a decent stable temperature.
The Pigsty, and other racing Sevens have an oil to coolant heat exchanger which obviously helps with getting the oil to temp quickly