30-09-2018, 11:35 AM
Assuming that your hydraulic brake components are all stock Morris Minor, it is possible that you have air stuck in a wheel cylinder, which could make one side fractionally more responsive than the other (as well as shoe adjustment - assuming the linings are an axle set and not a mixture).
The orientation of one of the pair of front wheel cylinders to each side with the piston facing upwards means that air can be trapped as the in/out drilling is at the lowest point. Not a good design!
When I bled my brakes, I have taken the back plates off the stub axle and laid these horizontally to give the air the best chance of air being expelled. You could also remove the pistons from the wheel cylinders and pour brake fluid in to prime it first, a bit messy and air could still be trapped under the lip of the seal...
Also worth checking is the clearance between the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder fixing mount (the small nut end) as these can push the shoe too far over (just a fraction) and this will affect the adjustment slightly, but enough to give rise to uneven braking, this can also make the shoes bind on the drum.
The adjusters should be turned by the same amount, but if the drums have unevenly worn this may not be the case, adjuster turned to lock the drum and then backed off one or two clicks so that the drum rotates freely without running against the shoes.
I had murders setting up my front brakes after fitting new parts and I examined each part to see what was causing problems and all that was required was a little gentle filing off the casting by the wheel cylinder fixing mounts and this allowed the brake shoes freedom to properly centralise, all resolved and job was a good-un!
The orientation of one of the pair of front wheel cylinders to each side with the piston facing upwards means that air can be trapped as the in/out drilling is at the lowest point. Not a good design!
When I bled my brakes, I have taken the back plates off the stub axle and laid these horizontally to give the air the best chance of air being expelled. You could also remove the pistons from the wheel cylinders and pour brake fluid in to prime it first, a bit messy and air could still be trapped under the lip of the seal...
Also worth checking is the clearance between the brake shoes and the wheel cylinder fixing mount (the small nut end) as these can push the shoe too far over (just a fraction) and this will affect the adjustment slightly, but enough to give rise to uneven braking, this can also make the shoes bind on the drum.
The adjusters should be turned by the same amount, but if the drums have unevenly worn this may not be the case, adjuster turned to lock the drum and then backed off one or two clicks so that the drum rotates freely without running against the shoes.
I had murders setting up my front brakes after fitting new parts and I examined each part to see what was causing problems and all that was required was a little gentle filing off the casting by the wheel cylinder fixing mounts and this allowed the brake shoes freedom to properly centralise, all resolved and job was a good-un!