21-06-2018, 10:13 AM
I have a small test bed to run my engines up in Simon - has a radiator, fuel supply, exhaust and ignition switch connected to a battery etc. I usually start my engines in this to check for oil and water leaks, can also make adjustments to tappets, carbs etc. more easily. When running on this jig, and new, I constantly vary the revs. and rarely run it for more than a couple of minutes, if all is well here I then put it into the car and proceed as below. Worth noting that I run a new engine over on the starter with no ignition until oil pressure shows on the gauge before firing up (If you run a filter it would be sensible to do this each and every time, in my opinion). I also lance the oil jets a couple of times in this early stage to be absolutely certain they remain clear and fully operational.
My oil run-in procedure is as follows.
Cheap oil - 20 miles and dump.
Cheap oil - 50 miles and dump.
Remove sump and clean out all debris - you may be surprised how much has accumulated from the bores etc.
Cheap oil - 300 miles and dump.
Then every 1500 - 2000 miles or once a year - oil of your choice.
I use 7 Workshop pistons and rings, these are excellent in my experience but hard and do take about 1800-2500 miles of driving to bed in properly, the engine becomes very sweet at this point and I then consider it run-in.
My favoured driving style for engine run-in.
Start car and proceed immediately (no ticking-over on the drive while the tea is drunk...) - keep revs sensible using gears to ensure that it is free-revving at all times, do not labour the engine at all in the early stages but treating it too gently will result in the rings not bedding in properly - find that sweet spot and try to drive in it whatever gear you are in.
Every engine is different, makes it's own noise/s (my current one in the Pearl was described as sounding like a Racing Tractor by a so-say friend last night!). In the early miles stop regularly and check for water level, oil and water leaks etc. If using your electronic distributor you will find that it will require minuscule adjustment to get absolutely correct - they are much more sensitive to set-up than the conventional units in my experience.
Recently Gary Edwards and I fitted silicone tappet chest seals in an attempt to cure what we thought was a leak in the seal here. It turned out to be between the block and crankcase for both of us, tightening that down solved it for me - Gary has another issue before testing this! New oil is harder to spot leaking as it is clear. The Silicon gasket works very well and can be removed and reapplied for any tappet adjustments.
Throughout all of this torque down the head correctly a couple of time hot and the same when cold.
I am absolutely sure that you know much of this from your experience with the MG etc. and also that everyone's preferred method will differ.
Good luck.
My oil run-in procedure is as follows.
Cheap oil - 20 miles and dump.
Cheap oil - 50 miles and dump.
Remove sump and clean out all debris - you may be surprised how much has accumulated from the bores etc.
Cheap oil - 300 miles and dump.
Then every 1500 - 2000 miles or once a year - oil of your choice.
I use 7 Workshop pistons and rings, these are excellent in my experience but hard and do take about 1800-2500 miles of driving to bed in properly, the engine becomes very sweet at this point and I then consider it run-in.
My favoured driving style for engine run-in.
Start car and proceed immediately (no ticking-over on the drive while the tea is drunk...) - keep revs sensible using gears to ensure that it is free-revving at all times, do not labour the engine at all in the early stages but treating it too gently will result in the rings not bedding in properly - find that sweet spot and try to drive in it whatever gear you are in.
Every engine is different, makes it's own noise/s (my current one in the Pearl was described as sounding like a Racing Tractor by a so-say friend last night!). In the early miles stop regularly and check for water level, oil and water leaks etc. If using your electronic distributor you will find that it will require minuscule adjustment to get absolutely correct - they are much more sensitive to set-up than the conventional units in my experience.
Recently Gary Edwards and I fitted silicone tappet chest seals in an attempt to cure what we thought was a leak in the seal here. It turned out to be between the block and crankcase for both of us, tightening that down solved it for me - Gary has another issue before testing this! New oil is harder to spot leaking as it is clear. The Silicon gasket works very well and can be removed and reapplied for any tappet adjustments.
Throughout all of this torque down the head correctly a couple of time hot and the same when cold.
I am absolutely sure that you know much of this from your experience with the MG etc. and also that everyone's preferred method will differ.
Good luck.