09-09-2024, 08:20 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-09-2024, 08:25 AM by John Cornforth.)
Hi
I haven't fitted one, but have looked at their instructions. The original Austin starter is an inertia type unit, but has no remote solenoid driven by a combined ignition and starter (key) switch as used in the 1950's to 1970's. Instead it uses an older style cable operated high current switch directly mounted to the top of the starter - very simple.
The Powerlite unit is a pre-engaged type which has a built in solenoid activated by putting voltage on the "solenoid trigger" input. The solenoid has two jobs, it closes two internal high current contacts to activate the motor, and it pulls the pinion into mesh.
I think you will need to run the high current cable directly from the battery to the Powerlite to give it a permanent live feed. You will also need to add a starter switch (e.g. push button momentary type) inside the car. Wire this from the battery live to the "solenoid trigger" input of the Powerlite (the supplied short link is not needed). The current draw through this starter switch is much less than the main feed, but it's probably still tens of amps for a brief period. This means the switch needs a good current rating and the wiring to it should not be too thin or long.
I guess if you wanted to keep the original starter knob and cable you could use a spare Austin Seven/Lucas brake light switch mechanically connected to the cable end via a spring, but this is up to your ingenuity and needs to be safely made and mounted.
Wire a heavy duty return cable directly from the starter fixing bolt to the battery.
I haven't fitted one, but have looked at their instructions. The original Austin starter is an inertia type unit, but has no remote solenoid driven by a combined ignition and starter (key) switch as used in the 1950's to 1970's. Instead it uses an older style cable operated high current switch directly mounted to the top of the starter - very simple.
The Powerlite unit is a pre-engaged type which has a built in solenoid activated by putting voltage on the "solenoid trigger" input. The solenoid has two jobs, it closes two internal high current contacts to activate the motor, and it pulls the pinion into mesh.
I think you will need to run the high current cable directly from the battery to the Powerlite to give it a permanent live feed. You will also need to add a starter switch (e.g. push button momentary type) inside the car. Wire this from the battery live to the "solenoid trigger" input of the Powerlite (the supplied short link is not needed). The current draw through this starter switch is much less than the main feed, but it's probably still tens of amps for a brief period. This means the switch needs a good current rating and the wiring to it should not be too thin or long.
I guess if you wanted to keep the original starter knob and cable you could use a spare Austin Seven/Lucas brake light switch mechanically connected to the cable end via a spring, but this is up to your ingenuity and needs to be safely made and mounted.
Wire a heavy duty return cable directly from the starter fixing bolt to the battery.