13-08-2024, 08:11 AM
Hi again
At risk of telling you stuff you know, check that the sprung loaded carbon button in the centre of the distributor cap is present and correct. Since your malaise seems to affect all cylinders, the finger of suspicion is pointing to the king lead and its connections, and the rotor arm.
The rotor arm tip should run pretty close to the contacts, I guess no more than a 20 thou gap would be in order. This needs a spark to jump it, but with such a small gap and only atmospheric pressure the voltage loss is acceptable. Watch out for caps where the four electrodes have eroded away. The rotor arm tip should ideally also be unworn and have nice sharp edges.
I have seen cases where the rotor arm tip has actually touched the contacts, leading to rapid wear and a film of brass filings inside the cap. This can happen if the shaft bearings have worn enough to give appreciable side play, or where mix and match caps and arms have been fitted and there has been a build up of tolerances.
At risk of telling you stuff you know, check that the sprung loaded carbon button in the centre of the distributor cap is present and correct. Since your malaise seems to affect all cylinders, the finger of suspicion is pointing to the king lead and its connections, and the rotor arm.
The rotor arm tip should run pretty close to the contacts, I guess no more than a 20 thou gap would be in order. This needs a spark to jump it, but with such a small gap and only atmospheric pressure the voltage loss is acceptable. Watch out for caps where the four electrodes have eroded away. The rotor arm tip should ideally also be unworn and have nice sharp edges.
I have seen cases where the rotor arm tip has actually touched the contacts, leading to rapid wear and a film of brass filings inside the cap. This can happen if the shaft bearings have worn enough to give appreciable side play, or where mix and match caps and arms have been fitted and there has been a build up of tolerances.