02-08-2024, 08:07 AM
Hi
If you want to keep the radiator in place but get better access, you do need to remove the front grille. The starting handle is held with a tapered cotter (like an old fashioned bicycle crank). Undo the nut and remove the washer, then put the nut back on upside down till the flat outer face is flush with the end of the thread (this protects the thread). Then knock the nut with a reasonable sized hammer. It helps to also have a heavy weight held against the other side to take the blow. Once the cotter has moved, undo the nut a bit more and knock again. Eventually you may need a parallel punch or thin bolt to allow the cotter to be knocked right through and out. The handle should then pull/twist off. The "tinwork" is held on with a number of nuts and bolts with large "mudguard" washers. The tinwork holes are slotted to allow a bit of position adjustment. There is also a nut and bolt right at the top which joins to the radiator and the central bonnet support.
If you want to remove the radiator, leave the grille alone. Remove the bonnet after releasing the hinge support - this is one nut halfway along underneath the "U" section fore-aft bar. The bonnet lifts up and slightly forwards, it's much easier with two people. Then unbolt and remove the fore-aft bar after disconnecting the horn. The front bolt which holds the top of the radiator has a spring under. If the radiator has vertical side plates (many are missing) undo the three small nuts and bolts and take them off. Remove the hose clips from the engine ends and free the two hoses - the hoses can stay attached to the radiator but it's probably better to take them right off. Lastly, the bottom of the radiator is held by two studs, with springs, washers and nuts. The nuts are accessed via oval holes in the bottom of the support brackets - space is tight so a tube (box) spanner or a slender socket is required. WARNING, spray with Plus-Gas the day before and don't go mad with undoing these nuts as the studs are only soft soldered and go through holes into the thin brass bottom tank - this is a design weakness and leaks are always a risk ! When replacing, do the nuts up until the springs are coil bound then back off one turn.
One last note, most of the fixings on these cars are either BSF or Whitworth. The same spanner or socket set will work for both, but BSF/Whit spanners are unique and not the same sizes as Metric or Imperial AF. Car boot sales used to yield BSF/Whit spanners cheaply, but you might have to invest in new ones.
If you want to keep the radiator in place but get better access, you do need to remove the front grille. The starting handle is held with a tapered cotter (like an old fashioned bicycle crank). Undo the nut and remove the washer, then put the nut back on upside down till the flat outer face is flush with the end of the thread (this protects the thread). Then knock the nut with a reasonable sized hammer. It helps to also have a heavy weight held against the other side to take the blow. Once the cotter has moved, undo the nut a bit more and knock again. Eventually you may need a parallel punch or thin bolt to allow the cotter to be knocked right through and out. The handle should then pull/twist off. The "tinwork" is held on with a number of nuts and bolts with large "mudguard" washers. The tinwork holes are slotted to allow a bit of position adjustment. There is also a nut and bolt right at the top which joins to the radiator and the central bonnet support.
If you want to remove the radiator, leave the grille alone. Remove the bonnet after releasing the hinge support - this is one nut halfway along underneath the "U" section fore-aft bar. The bonnet lifts up and slightly forwards, it's much easier with two people. Then unbolt and remove the fore-aft bar after disconnecting the horn. The front bolt which holds the top of the radiator has a spring under. If the radiator has vertical side plates (many are missing) undo the three small nuts and bolts and take them off. Remove the hose clips from the engine ends and free the two hoses - the hoses can stay attached to the radiator but it's probably better to take them right off. Lastly, the bottom of the radiator is held by two studs, with springs, washers and nuts. The nuts are accessed via oval holes in the bottom of the support brackets - space is tight so a tube (box) spanner or a slender socket is required. WARNING, spray with Plus-Gas the day before and don't go mad with undoing these nuts as the studs are only soft soldered and go through holes into the thin brass bottom tank - this is a design weakness and leaks are always a risk ! When replacing, do the nuts up until the springs are coil bound then back off one turn.
One last note, most of the fixings on these cars are either BSF or Whitworth. The same spanner or socket set will work for both, but BSF/Whit spanners are unique and not the same sizes as Metric or Imperial AF. Car boot sales used to yield BSF/Whit spanners cheaply, but you might have to invest in new ones.