13-05-2018, 07:28 PM
Hello All,
The 1932 chassis I'm using as the basis for a special had a very loose cross shaft when I got it. It turned out the zinc bushes had seized round the shaft and the spherical bearings had turned in their housings, wearing to a very loose fit. Following suggestions on the old forum, I removed the whole assembly from the chassis (ground off the rivet heads), "adjusted" the housings with the aid of a large hammer, got hold of some better bearings and re-did the bushes with some sheet zinc.
However, when I came to put it all back on the chassis, i tried using bsf nuts and set screws to fit them. For a reason I couldn't fathom at the time, if I tried to do the (necessarily quite small) nuts up properly tight, they would always strip their threads. I finally worked out this was because, as the pressed steel flange of the hanger was tightened down onto the chassis rail, the resulting sandwich was not of perfectly uniform thickness - I was tightening down onto a slight wedge, and this caused the threads to try to cross and ultimately strip.
I did end up putting the hangers on the chassis using this method and nyloc nuts, not tightening them to quite the torque I would have liked. Having had time to ponder this arrangement, and noting the safety significance of the component, I am not happy with this, and want to re-do it. But how?
I've been researching rivets. I assume that no pop rivet will do the job and I would have to use a solid steel rivet. Has anyone tried riveting cold, using the set/snap method? It works for garden spades, but I want to be absolutely sure the final fixing will be strong enough. I can't really justify investing in specialist hot riveting equipment (although it does look fun to do!). I would be very pleased to hear from anyone who has successfully tackled this job.
Thanks!
Urgent
The 1932 chassis I'm using as the basis for a special had a very loose cross shaft when I got it. It turned out the zinc bushes had seized round the shaft and the spherical bearings had turned in their housings, wearing to a very loose fit. Following suggestions on the old forum, I removed the whole assembly from the chassis (ground off the rivet heads), "adjusted" the housings with the aid of a large hammer, got hold of some better bearings and re-did the bushes with some sheet zinc.
However, when I came to put it all back on the chassis, i tried using bsf nuts and set screws to fit them. For a reason I couldn't fathom at the time, if I tried to do the (necessarily quite small) nuts up properly tight, they would always strip their threads. I finally worked out this was because, as the pressed steel flange of the hanger was tightened down onto the chassis rail, the resulting sandwich was not of perfectly uniform thickness - I was tightening down onto a slight wedge, and this caused the threads to try to cross and ultimately strip.
I did end up putting the hangers on the chassis using this method and nyloc nuts, not tightening them to quite the torque I would have liked. Having had time to ponder this arrangement, and noting the safety significance of the component, I am not happy with this, and want to re-do it. But how?
I've been researching rivets. I assume that no pop rivet will do the job and I would have to use a solid steel rivet. Has anyone tried riveting cold, using the set/snap method? It works for garden spades, but I want to be absolutely sure the final fixing will be strong enough. I can't really justify investing in specialist hot riveting equipment (although it does look fun to do!). I would be very pleased to hear from anyone who has successfully tackled this job.
Thanks!
Urgent