31-03-2024, 09:59 AM
Tim, you may find that there is not universal enthusiasm for Bowdenex. My experience is that, properly arranged, they work very well.
I notice in one of your earlier posts that your reversing hiccups seemed greater on lock.
It is commonplace to find that the unmodified geometry of the standard braking system can induce problems but this should not be the case with Bowdenex - unless the cables are dragging.
Because most Bowdenex cables I have seen have grease nipples, people tend to grease them. This usually results in cable drag, particularly after a few years of the grease hardening.
My first move on reconditioning existing Bowdenex is to suspend the cable by an extremity and play a hot air gun over its length. Put down a tray to catch the dripping! Keep at it until the cable returns freely with just its own spring pressure.
I would lubricate with oil, circa sae 10, no thicker. Motor cycle fork oil, perhaps?
Once the cables are moving freely this should enable you to adjust the front brake shoes closer to the drum without inducing drag or snatch. A few thou at the drum makes quite a difference at the pedal.
It is also worth checking which rear brake levers are fitted. Bowdenex levers are longer than the early levers. If your car has early rear levers and the rear brakes are adjusted up fully they will inhibit full movement of the front levers for obvious geometric reasons.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Stuart
I notice in one of your earlier posts that your reversing hiccups seemed greater on lock.
It is commonplace to find that the unmodified geometry of the standard braking system can induce problems but this should not be the case with Bowdenex - unless the cables are dragging.
Because most Bowdenex cables I have seen have grease nipples, people tend to grease them. This usually results in cable drag, particularly after a few years of the grease hardening.
My first move on reconditioning existing Bowdenex is to suspend the cable by an extremity and play a hot air gun over its length. Put down a tray to catch the dripping! Keep at it until the cable returns freely with just its own spring pressure.
I would lubricate with oil, circa sae 10, no thicker. Motor cycle fork oil, perhaps?
Once the cables are moving freely this should enable you to adjust the front brake shoes closer to the drum without inducing drag or snatch. A few thou at the drum makes quite a difference at the pedal.
It is also worth checking which rear brake levers are fitted. Bowdenex levers are longer than the early levers. If your car has early rear levers and the rear brakes are adjusted up fully they will inhibit full movement of the front levers for obvious geometric reasons.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Stuart