Joined: Jun 2022 Posts: 129 Threads: 21
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Location: Exeter
Thank you all for the replies.
I've been checking the wiring round the ruby all day today with multimeter and have got nowhere. It's still pulling the cutout closed as soon as the ignition is on. I'll disconnect it and try the ohm meter as you suggest. I'm loathe to have the dynamo rewound before I've fixed this particular issue.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 98 Threads: 3
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Try removing all the wires to the cutout +D terminal and see what happens with the ignition on/off.
Joined: Aug 2023 Posts: 3 Threads: 0
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Location: South Africa
Car type: Austen 7 Ruby 1930
Good day.
I do not have a cut out for my Austen 7 and have heard and read about the smart diode unit, I’m in South Africa and purchasing a complete unit from England is out the budget. But I can get just the diode down here. Namely the LM 74611 kkt. Please can anyone help with wiring of the diode.
I have the 6 vdc negative earth electrical system.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 622 Threads: 19
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Location: Hampshire UK
Hi Harry
The Cathode of the Texas SM74611 chip (Tab and centre Pin 2) connects in place of the A terminal of the cutout. This then usually feeds via the Charge/Lighting switch through the Ammeter and then to the Battery positive.
The Anode of the 74611 (Outer Pins 1 and 3, connected together) connects in place of the D terminal of the cutout. This is fed from the main D output of the dynamo.
Current flow when charging is from Anode to Cathode
The average heat dissipation of this device is less than a quarter of a watt, so the package should not need any additional heat sink.
Later cars like the Ruby had a cutout which also incorporated the resistor for the "half charge" circuit. You will have to make separate arrangements if you want the half charge feature.
