What have you done today with your Austin Seven

[Hurvinek]

One more foto, taken at the event last saturday. 

[Peter Naulls]

I spent a couple of fruitless hours trying to find the cause of a very persistent backfire, but I did get a lovely view of the Kessock bridge on one of my trips around the block.

   

[AustinWood]

Backfires on the overrun are often caused by an exhaust leak close to the engine,
The Nippy I had years ago used to do this after changing down into second to turn into a side road. It was very loud and certainly cleared pedestrians out of the way.

[Chris KC]

Yesterday I had a second try at moulding a yard of T-section rubber seal. It has the odd bubble here and there but I'm quite pleased with the result.


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[Steve kay]

   

What I have done this morning is to decide that asking for advise is a good idea. How to get the nut of the outside of the fulcrum pin. The inside nut, tightening against the wedge, was a castellated nut but I can see or find no evidence of a hole for a split pin, there was not one in place. Is there a cunning traditional technique for loosening off the outside nut? Thoughts at knocking off for lunch were maybe to find a couple of 7/16 Whit nuts, if correct thread, to lock the inside. Any other ideas? (No the car is not upside down on a cradle!)

["Slack Alice" Simon]

I think I remember that the threaded bit is hammered, to spread it and lock the nut.

If so, repeated moving the nut back and forth, and/or screwing it in to get access to the end of the thread with a file, should release it.

[Reckless Rat]

The chassis mounting should be via a nut and a wedge shaped spacer. There should be a flat on the bit between the box and the pedal so you can hold it while you undo the outer nut.

[Steve Jones]

Bruce beat me to it. As he says, there should be a pair of flats on the flange between the pedal and the box that takes a 7/16" Whit open ended spanner. There are some that don't have these flats, I think. If so, you can hold the flange tight with Mole Grips and then undo the outer nut. If no flats, once removed, file a pair on ready for next time!!The inner end should have a hole for a split pin. Bunged up perhaps.

Steve

[Ruairidh Dunford]

The chassis mounting should be via a nut and a wedge shaped spacer. There should be a flat on the bit between the box and the pedal so you can hold it while you undo the outer nut.

The photo above shows the type used with the very late "hourglass" steering column, earlier ones do not have the flat and will need to be gripped with mole grips, as Steve suggests.

[Steve kay]

Onwards, or not. The flange being early is unflatted. Can’t get enough grip from mole grip. The thread is 1/2” BSF, for which a spanner marked 7/16” Whit is perfectly compatible. A 1/2” BSF nut had been waiting for many years in a mayonnaise jar, ready to be called to duty. However, even two nuts mightily tightened whilst preventing movement, the outer nut remains solid, despite following advise about filing off what could have been hammering or merely deep rust. Any further civilised suggestions, before resorting to the angle grinder in the morning?