I have now moved onto the brakes on my (easy project to restore special x#!!*) having now taken engine out and body off!! The brake cross shaft was seized solid and after much heat , copious amounts of WD40 and cuss words that even I didn't know I knew I finally got the cotter pins out and the cross shaft off.
can any one tell me if the compensating beam is fixed rigid to the balance lever as on mine or should it pivot ie move on the pivot pin, and there did not apear to be any felt washers or remnants of ,anywhere on the shaft , should there be or did some 7's not have them I do not know what model the chassis is from but it is reputed to be 1934 chassis number not apparent anywhere. if it is advisable to have felt washers how thick should they be ? Ihave seen an article on a blog showing the varous components including felt washers.I have also seen an article by Trevor Sharp to improve braking by puting bigger expander rollers on the brake cones does this work and is it worth doing ?
Thanks in advance (still fettling away and looking for the horizon)
Clivesu
Hello Clive,
Hope you don't mind, I've moved your thread out of the management info box, and hopefully it will get some more responses here.
For your questions, these parts lists may be useful to identify the parts on your car? Which year (if any) shows your parts? 1934 1937 1938
If none, then it sounds like they may have been modified (or are quite a bit earlier than expected), and pictures would help to identify (they would be helpful anyway to make sure we're all on the same page, when answering your questions)
With regards Trevor Sharp's article, this was about the 'Big Seven', and the mod advised for the rollers and cones would only apply to a regular 7 if you have a 1938 onward, rod braked back axle. All previous types, the shoes are expanded by rotating cam.
Hope that is of some help. (or leads to more help)
28-08-2017, 08:35 PM (This post was last modified: 28-08-2017, 08:46 PM by Bob Culver.)
This topic was very extensively covered on the old website. A search there should reveal all. If 1934-35 the concentric shafts fastened together can be a mystery. All explained in old posts.
There is little info in the various books except pictures.
The only balance beam in pre 1936 semi Girling sytems is the aluminium part circle for the front cable.This should pivot.
29-08-2017, 05:50 PM (This post was last modified: 29-08-2017, 06:54 PM by Timothy P.)
(28-08-2017, 07:37 PM)Timothy P Wrote: Hello Clive,
Hope you don't mind, I've moved your thread out of the management info box, and hopefully it will get some more responses here.
For your questions, these parts lists may be useful to identify the parts on your car? Which year (if any) shows your parts? 1934 1937 1938
If none, then it sounds like they may have been modified (or are quite a bit earlier than expected), and pictures would help to identify (they would be helpful anyway to make sure we're all on the same page, when answering your questions)
With regards Trevor Sharp's article, this was about the 'Big Seven', and the mod advised for the rollers and cones would only apply to a regular 7 if you have a 1938 onward, rod braked back axle. All previous types, the shoes are expanded by rotating cam.
Hope that is of some help. (or leads to more help)
MANY THANKS TIMOTHY THE PARTS IN QUESTION ARE FROM THE 1937 LIST P46 AND ARE 1A5487. 1A5472. & 1A5471 THE QUESTION BEING. DOES PART 1A5471 PIVOT ON 1A5487 OR IS IT FIXED RIGID ? AS MINE IS AT THE MOMENT. I HAVE LOOKED AT PREVOUS THREADS BUT CAN FIND NO MENTION AS TO WEATHER SHOULD MOVE OR IS RIGID AS TO THE BRAKES I THINK THEY MUST BE POST 38 AS THEY HAVE ROLLERS. THE WHOLE CHASSIS APPEARS TO BE A BITSA REGISTERED AS A 34 ALTHOUGH THERE ARE NO IDENTIFICATION NO'S EXCEPT ON THE DIFF WHICH IS STAMPED AS A 37 AND THE V5 REGISTRATION DOC
OK Clive, that's good, one of the best standard setups.
Yes I'm afraid to say that that part should pivot. Unfortunately if it hasn't moved in a long time it may be extremely difficult to free without sacrificing and replacing the stepped rivet.
This picture may be helpful, if you haven't found it already.
As with the previous crosshaft, clear diagrams, descriptions and adjustment info for the Girling systems cross shaft are not common, so operation not easy to fathom even when lying on your back.. Helpful diagram in Williams book p103. Perhaps someone can copy. With the footbrake applied, the arms of the U shaped yolk should be equal distance from the central stop. Application of the handbrake is primarily to the rear whilst the foot pedal is more equal.
I have just finished refurbishing the cross shaft on my 1936 Special and the body is still off so if you want any Photos now is the time. These late cross shafts are not covered that well in the documentation and the suppliers don't have much either. I have attached a picture if you need any others just ask.
The bushes between the chassis and the shaft is made from zinc sheet, the inner brass bushes (1' ID) are available from the suppliers the felts you can make, I modified an existing one available from I think the back axle, the smaller ones I punched out of some felt. Lastly for the washers, the originals were cupped so I used brass welsh plugs and cut the centres out on the lathe and generally mucked about until they worked.
That drawing shows you the exact order of washers bushes etc, have fun it took me all day just to assemble it.
