18-12-2022, 11:25 AM
(This post was last modified: 18-12-2022, 11:25 AM by Ruairidh Dunford.)
She does know the answer to this, but I wonder if you can think about how that might have been done, Steve?
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Building my first Austin Seven car
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18-12-2022, 11:25 AM
(This post was last modified: 18-12-2022, 11:25 AM by Ruairidh Dunford.)
She does know the answer to this, but I wonder if you can think about how that might have been done, Steve?
18-12-2022, 11:39 AM
If the mountain won't come to Mohammed then Mohammed must come to the mountain, n'est-ce pas?
18-12-2022, 11:54 AM
Well- If it's too tight, presumably a thicker gasket, but if it's the other way, too slack, that's what has got me wondering.
Can you tell us if Daisy had this problem to contend with? It would also be very useful to know the sort of feeler gauge measurement we should be aiming for. I'm filled with admiration for your project, the chance of me being able to accomplish that at Daisy's age- not a chance! All the best Steve
18-12-2022, 12:06 PM
You've got it in one, nice one.
If too slack, you can remove the gasket completely (use sealant/compound), change the housing, surface grind the bottom face of the housing or try another (better) dynamo end gear. I try and aim for as close to 0.006" as possible, others like it closer but I find that works well and reduces tick over slop. This particular engine was good, without adjustment, but she knows to check. The biggest problem to avoid is it being too close, this has potential to catastrophic (witness/shiny marks on in the centre of the camshaft gear trough are the first sign of this in a running engine), so if you are not sure of the clearance, or how to measure it, ensure the dynamo gear rocks on the camshaft gear, all the way round.
18-12-2022, 01:43 PM
Hi Daisy
Great thread, just one question! What is the reason for using the very early head (with nicely polished priming plugs). Is there some hidden advantage or is it simply because it was available? Cheers Howard
18-12-2022, 01:49 PM
It's a perfectly standard head, nothing to see here...
18-12-2022, 05:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-12-2022, 06:03 PM by Daisy Dunford.)
Hi Steve,
thanks for your message and question about the gears. Dad and I talked about this and he used his fingers to show me how the gears get closer and tighter and if you move them away you get more space. We used one gasket and the feeler gauge was really tricky to get in but dad was happy so I guess it will be okay. Daisy We decide to do some extra work today. First I pushed the bushes into the end of the springs and then used the reamer make sure the pin was a good smooth fit. It was. Then dad helped carry the springs to the chassis and I tapped them in until I could see the holes lined up. Then we built up the suspension arms. I used the die set that Sandy gave me to clean up the threads. The we took them back to chassis and put the discs on, we found ot really hard to get the srping small enough to get the nut on but eventuaaully with a special tool dad had we got the nut on and I did them up tight. Dad turned the chassis over and lifted the back axle on for me and I tapped the pins in. We had to get the slot lined up and one was really tricky. Then dad lifted the front axle up and I put the nuts onto the U bolts, the axle was really heavy. At last I was able to sit on my car for the first time. Hopefully we can get the back wheels on soon and maybe the engine too. I need to do lots of painting but it is too cold and the paint is going all funny.
18-12-2022, 08:48 PM
Very well done, Daisy, both with the engine and the chassis work. I see you've had difficulty compressing the rear shock absorber springs small enough so as to get the nut on the repro centre bolts that are available today. I use a valve spring compressor to compress the springs so that the nut can go on. Is that what your Dad suggested? It helps if the outer end of the centre bolt is 'doted' in the lathe so as to locate the end of the screw on the compressor. However, if our suppliers arranged for the thread on the repro through bolts to be 1/4" longer, it would all would be so much easier. Maybe something for them to think about for the next batch?
Steve
19-12-2022, 12:52 PM
Great work, Daisy, your new engine sounds very smooth and responsive. I built my first Austin Seven engine back in 1982 when I was in my mid 20's (pretty old by your standards!). I built it in my parent's conservatory, and I still have that engine 40 years later. Unlike you, I didn't have any help when I built it and I followed the advice given in Bill William's book 'Austin 7 Specials'. It has been in at least four cars (all specials) and I have always kept it when I sold the car. It is now in the Pytchley and is still going strong.
Great thread and like many others Forumists, I am enjoying following your meteoric progress.
24-12-2022, 05:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-12-2022, 06:02 PM by Daisy Dunford.)
I think this will be my last post of the year as dad needs the workshop space back for his proper job.
We worked really hard over the last two days because we need to be able to move the car about. The back brakes were a lot of work because the hole for the cam was too small and dad had to make it bigger, that took quiet a long time but at last he got it right and we could put the brakes on. We then put all the cables on and the handbrake and at last the steering column. Dad lifted the engine in and we put on a differnt geabox and the axle shaft I put the exhaust pipe on too. It was nearly ready to start up again and I was very excited. https://youtube.com/shorts/YMDUXNhr_Os?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/a80pCz8eDGk?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/mk1APmwI7m4?feature=share |
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