Torque Tube Adjustment

[williamsderbys]

Investigating a worrying clonk from my axle on lifting the clutch pedal revealed play in the torque tube socket.(BP66)
A previous owner has rammed the adjusting 'nut' (BP38) up to its limit and decided not to use the locking bolt.
These parts look to be difficult to recon but i would be very pleased to hear otherwise.
Not relishing taking the axle out but 'needs must'
JW

[Reckless Rat]

Not necessarily. It is possible to remove the torque tube mount without removing the axle. First of all you have to remove the prop shaft, then the other half of the hardy spicer from the torque tube (being careful not to damage or distort it) and then, by removing the small ball joint from the chassis cross member you should be able to remove the torque tube mount. A refurbishment will probably necessitate the outer casing being faced off in a lathe, to enable the adjusting ring to screw further in to remove any play. Fiddly, but not impossible.

However, first check that the noise isn't coming from the lower mounting on the crossmember - that can be easily sorted with some shims. (assuming of course this is not the later Ruby type with a silentbloc rubber mounting)

Good luck

[Howard Wright]

Hi JW

As Reckers has said it should be possible to remove the torque tube socket but you will probably need to remove the pinion flange before it comes completely free of the axle.

The face can be turned back on a lathe to allow the ball adjusting nut to tighten further on the thread. But sometimes it is the adjusting nut that bottoms out and needs to be faced back. In which case it is an axle out and disassembly job. However the fact that the adjusting nut is fully tightened indicates that the ball on the end of the torque tube is worn. Often the case that these wear unevenly and tightening up the socket may cause it to snag with possible consequences to the torque tube itself. In this case it is probably better to leave some slack and put up with the odd clunk? 

Again as advised it is often the vertical movement of the socket that causes a “thump” on take up and reverse.  Much easier to deal with.

Cheers

Howard

[Tony Press]

And if the spherical end is out of round (it often is) just keep pumping in grease and ignore the clunk 

[John Mason]

Tony, I have this problem and do as you advise pump I full of grease. Would it help things if I could acquire some thicker stiffer grease and pump that in.

John Mason.

[Reckless Rat]

I would have thought that if there is excessive play between the ball and its mounting that the grease may at first dampen some of the clonking, but it will just get pushed out by the movement and all you'll end up with eventually is lots of grease where it does no good.

[Howard Wright]

Hi All

You will probably find that the grease disappears down the hole in the top of the torque tube ball and into the pinion shaft bearing! 

Cheers

Howard

[Tony Press]

I would have thought that if there is excessive play between the ball and its mounting that the grease may at first dampen some of the clonking, but it will just get pushed out by the movement and all you'll end up with eventually is lots of grease where it does no good.

As I said I just ignore the clunk. and lots of grease doesn't cost a lot and stops rust