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Purchased car about this time last year. Undriveable initially with no brakes, clutch would not release, wiring a mess, doors falling off the hinges, crown wheel shot and both seats moved rearward 10 inches. All problems repaired. One remaining job was the steering. Car would jump all around the road when driving. My local alignment shop could not do the job as wheel track was to narrow for his machine. Ended up setting the alignment with a pair of toe plates that I purchased. Discovered that toe-in was 13/16 inch. Adjusted toe to zero and car goes down the road in a much better manner
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,635 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
I like you set up to measure toe in! What really is important on Sevens is the KPI (king pin inclination) which can we adjusted by freeing off the bolts which go through the axle into the radius arms and twisting the radius arms then once set, tightening up the bolts.
You will find it transforms the handling and the car has less inclination (ahem!) to jump over the hedge on a bumpy road.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 473 Threads: 63
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Location: West/North Devon England
Unfortunately that puts a twist on the spring and loads the spring bushes. Long since been an action advised to avoid. I think you are thinking of castor angle.
A thin wedge between chassis nose and spring and possible re-location of radius arms rear ball joint if required is way to go for different CASTOR angle.
Believe king pin angle is that set by angle of king pin axle end to rest of axle.
Dennis
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,635 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
29-08-2022, 06:57 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-08-2022, 08:59 PM by Ivor Hawkins.)
Sorry Dennis you are correct it is the castor angle I’m talking about not KPI, I’ve been setting mine as described, mainly because over the years, the action of the brakes has caused the axle to rotate, which in turn puts stress on the springs and bushes...generally setting up correctly has returned the axle and castor to factory settings, I agree cranking the radius arms over what they should be isn’t a great idea!
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In checking the Austin 7 Identification of models on the internet, The RNs were cowl mounted gas tanks with a 3 speed transmission. I have a crash box 4 speed and rear tank. My title number is B5 7602 while the cowl plate is B6 4834. Fouled up numbers but I'll let my heirs sort that problem out after I die. Currently almost 80 years of age.
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Chassis number is 161434. Best I can figure out the tunnel number is 1?4001. First digit is hard to read. No seams at the transition between the rear quarter and the back panel . It appears a lot gets fouled up when cars are imported into the USA and then go thru multiple owners and diifferent states
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,392 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Probably so. Your best identifier is the chassis number given that there are two car numbers given. The B6 serial number is probably the correct one. So what you have is a late 1932 RN saloon, with a construction date of around October 1932.
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Thanks for the information. From hereon I will refer to the car as an "RN".