Seat care

[Ian Williams]

I have only ever found real leather and Rexine covering original Austin 7 seats, some remedies' are prone to cause mould so take care that you research properly before making a decision which advice to follow.

[Colin Morgan]

Twenty-five years ago I spoke to someone who had previously worked for Connolly's and now spent his time restoring Aston Martin and Ferrari interiors for a good living. He sold me a large pot of Connolly's Leather Care Cream, which I have used annually (and sparingly - it doesn't need much) ever since to keep the leather seats on my Ruby supple. They don't seem to have needed anything else.

[Jason Franzone]

If they are dry, I have heard and used moisturiser (lots of it) until they become supple again. Then use leather conditioner after that. Auto gleam works really well.

[JonE]

I soaked some really ropey leather seat fronts in cheap vegetable oil to see if they could be re-used. The Rexine ones just stay greasy!

[Colin Morgan]

These are some notes made on leather renovation a while back when tackling a car with poor condition seats.  Gives some idea of the processes involved?  As many will already know, it can take a while, but dry and/or dirty leather can often be reclaimed with TLC.

1. Washing the top colour surface
• Use the leather soap solution diluted 10 times
• Use very hot water – the hotter the better
• Use minimum of water – foam is best
• Rub gently
• Rinse by dabbing with cold water if necessary
• Too much wetting will cause leather to dry hard like chamois
• Need to remove surface dirt or it will be washed in by rejuvenation process
• Keep water clean – mix a bit of soap solution at a time and change water frequently

2. Using rejuvenation fluid
• Dab a bit into the back of the leather with cloth or sponge or spray onto large areas
• Leave for about 1 hour – it will go lighter again as it is absorbed into leather fibres
• Apply repeatedly until leather is soft – may take many applications over a considerable period
• Too much will eventually weaken the leather so it might tear under load
• Try out a bit first to gauge how it will work

3. If colour renovation is required - removing the Connolly paint coating:
• Use 50% rejuvenation fluid and 50% cellulose thinners (this was probably the original solvent)
• Using just thinners would dry out the leather too much
• Try out a bit first to gauge how it will work

4. Colours
• The original leather colour may not be available since Connolly went out of business in 2002
• New leather might therefore differ.
• Original leather could be sprayed the same colour if required to match.

[Parazine]

As noted, there are all sorts of concoctions for leather seats. But I'm not entirely sure that the original seats in your ruby will be leather. More likely period faux leather surely?.

Standard (i.e.no sunshine roof, bumpers etc.) Rubies were upholstered in Rexine. De-luxe models were trimmed in "Best quality hide" for seat wearing faces, door cards. Non contact surfaces were Rexine.

[Dugi Leggett]

Whilst on the topic of seat care, my standard ‘34 RP has Rexine seats in generally good condition. What do people suggest using to clean the Rexine and keep it supple? I have, in the past, buffed them with a beeswax compound with reasonable results, but wonder if others may have better ideas? Thanks.