Joined: Jul 2019 Posts: 187 Threads: 42
Reputation:
5
Location: North Wales UK
Car type: Austin 7 RN 1931
I normally use the nearest available unbranded e10 petrol and add the appropriate dose of Ethomix.
I was lucky to source a bronze Zenith carb early on in my ownership, the original was crumbling away, and also wrapped the exhaust under the carb with the stuff normally seen on Harley Davidsons..
Thus far I have not experienced any problems. The supply line is filtered with a modern in line unit and seems to be keeping clear.
I've never checked the mpg but it seems to be ok.
The Ethomix seems, as per the manufacturers claims, to stop the E10 corrosion in the tank and fuel lines.
I look forward to your results
Buy an Austin 7 they said, It's easy to work on they said !
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,976 Threads: 90
Reputation:
17
Location: Ripon
My BSA (1023 V twin) will not run to full throttle on E10. I filled it to the top by mistake and wondered what on earth was wrong with it as it was sounding as if there were air leaks all through the inlet/carburettor department. I tried everything I could think of to find an air leak, cleaned plugs, checked timing and gave up. The car would run OK up to half throttle, about 45-50mph in third, but as soon as I put my foot down to get up to a good cruising speed it was pinking and banging away like fun.
I called the BSA guru (Simon Berringer) and he immediately pointed at the fuel saying there had been many similar reports from other owners. The low compression ratio doesn't help. I drained some and added E5 and kept topping it up and the problem has gone away. I use Millers octane enhancer additive which has been successful in the past.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 881 Threads: 48
Reputation:
4
Location: North Wiltshire
Car type: 1927 Chummy, 1938 Big Seven 1/2 a Trials Chummy
I'm using straight E10 in the Chummy (~500 miles this year) and the Top Hat (~430 miles this year), and I can report no adverse effects at all due to petrol stability.
Both were stored over the winter period with full(ish) tanks and there was no evidence of water condensate in either of the tanks in the spring.
No snake-oil additives used.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,230 Threads: 33
Reputation:
7
Location: Salop
Car type: '28 GE Cup. '28 AD Chummy '30 RL Saloon. '34 RP Saloon. Too Many toys!
I've had no trouble at all with the scuttle tank cars running E10,
One of the fibre disks in the T type pump on the rear tank car played silly buggers in the spring. Of course probably unrelated as I've not touched the pump in the 5 years I've had the car, no idea when dad last messed with it. The diaphram was still nice and supple so it went back in. No issues since.
I did however make sure that I stored them over winter with basically 'super' in them, no idea if it was E5 or ethanol free, I just did the last fill up with Super to limit the amount of ethanol in there over winter..
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,048 Threads: 108
Reputation:
3
Location: Cheshire
You know how you can get those pint glasses that continually refill with beer every time you drain them? - anyone know where you can get petrol tanks like that?
Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 46 Threads: 9
Reputation:
0
Location: R o. Ireland
Car type: '34 RP ,'30 RF
??????? what on gods's earth is an " on board Diagnostics" ??--an oil pressure button?
Oliver Paymter-Guinness
Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 694 Threads: 33
Reputation:
3
Location: Lot region FRANCE
I have found the E98 suits my RN more than the 95 and fuel vaporisation under the hot French sun 36 deg C plus much reduced. I do not know why this should be though.