Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Base of the clutch pedal onto the shaft that goes through the bell housing. There is a slot cut in the end of the shaft so you can hold it still with a big screwdriver while you position the pedal, but ideally it's a two person job. One to hold the release bearing against the fingers (through the hole in the bell housing and another pair of hands to loosen and retighten the pinchbolt on the pedal.
Joined: Aug 2021 Posts: 54 Threads: 12
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Location: Norwich, UK
Car type: Austin7 RN saloon
What happens if your gear filling hole is on the top of the case?
Can I use the engine dipstick?
Richard
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 502 Threads: 13
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I think that it is most likely that your clutch is not clearing properly and there for requires adjustment and possible overhaul.
It is a gearbox out job I am afraid.
A lot of Austin Sevens suffer from the same problem due to clutches not being set up correctly on assembly.
There is a certain amount of bad information around on this issue.
If you want further advice/help on this send me a mail and I will do my best to help as you are new to Sevens.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 985 Threads: 6
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Location: Scottish Borders
If the filler is on the top then it's a three-speed gearbox. The engine dipstick works for the gearbox.
Jim
Joined: Aug 2021 Posts: 54 Threads: 12
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Location: Norwich, UK
Car type: Austin7 RN saloon
Thanks Jim.
It is a three speed.
Regarding gear changes it’s taken me 12 months to learn how to change up from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd is ok.
As for changing down! I daren't. I will perhaps try giving the whole operation more time as previously suggested.
Richard.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,400 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
On a crash box, like the 3 speed and the early 4 speed, when you change gear you're actually moving a straight cut gear into mesh with another one. It only happens if the two are rotating at the same speed (ie synchronised) - in the later synchromesh gearboxes this is done for you by cone clutches, which allow the change to be made without having to match engine to road speed.
When changing up, you have to wait for the engine speed to drop to what it would be at the same speed in the next gear. The A7 has a heavy flywheel and it takes time for it to slow down. Try counting out loud "One, one thousand - neutral, two, one thousand, gear" and you'll not be far off. Same for a down change, but this time you have to increase the engine speed to match the road speed. Don't rush it. If the speeds of the gears are matched it will drop in as smooth as silk. If not you're making steel dust.
It's really hard to ddc into 1st at anything above walking pace without a crunch. Better just to stop.
Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 562 Threads: 56
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Location: West Yorkshire
Car type: Type 65 1934 + RP 1932
emleyj, if Nick Turley has offered to help you, this is an offer you would be crazy not to pursue. I got into Sevens about four years ago and Nick has been a huge help to me throughout.
Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 7 Threads: 2
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Location: Scotland
Thanks very much for the further replies. It’s great to see these forums so active with helpful replies and offers of assistance. I’ll drop Nick a message.
Joined: Nov 2021 Posts: 7 Threads: 2
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Location: Scotland
Just an update to say I think my own inexperience with Sevens contributed greatly to this issue. Having practiced slower gear changes, when to shift up and down (especially in relation to hills) and using a 4s pause between engaging the clutch and gear selection when at a pause. It’s also surprising just how versatile third gear is!
Whilst I haven’t quite perfected the driving technique it’s a much improved situation.