REAR HUB NUT SIZE

[Paul Nott]

Hi
Could anyone tell me the size of the rear hub wheel bearing retaining nut (1927) and is it tightened to any particular tightness?

I managed to remove with a stilsons but realise this is not a long term solution, it was particularly tight and I was under the impression it should only be nipped up?

I'm in the process of replacing the rear drums (cast Iron from Tony Betts) brake shoes to be relined by Saftek is there any thing else I should be looking to replace on the hub now I've come this far. 

Many thanks.
Paul

[David Cochrane]

You could try the box spanner BT952 here: Garage tools
Just nip the nut up so that it's tight.

[Tony Betts]

Here's the spanner I use, 1 11/16ths AF.

FITS THE NUT PERFECT. As shown.

It cost £1.00 from the car boot.

I didn't realize box spanners were so expensive, I usually throw them into auctions as job lots. Lucky if 50 will fetch a tenner.

A new socket is usually around a fiver.

Or if you are going to do more work on cars etc in the future, well worth looking at the better socket sets at motormart etc.

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[Tony Press]

Referring to the 1 1/4 " nut holding the bearing on the axle tube- mentioned recently - I believe have seen a plate spanner for this. 

Tony P.

[Ruairidh Dunford]

The plate spanners I have for this job were originally part of the Austin 10 tool kit, so I have been told.


   

[Bob Culver]

The nut does not have to be absurdly tight (the end of the axle is remarkably thin. The old style F adjustable spanners are very useful for this and many household plumbing jobs. Open wide, fit in where a Crescent type will not, and Crescent type were/are expensive. Every old man’s workshop and swapmeet has. Usually strained but can coax the jaws back to parallel with a hammer and file. Not so precious that cannot be tightend with a few gentle hammer blows.


Diabolical though they may be, pipe wrenches have their uses. I have encountered garage maintained cars with drain plugs completely rounded off; a pipe wrench can avoid laborious filing of  new flats.

There are several nuts on Sevens large for the typical old time owners tool kit. Many have attracted attentionn using a blunt (or not) punch

For the rest of the original question rear hubs,  rear axles, tapers, sealed bearings, substitute seals, all been extensively covered and Search should produce. The direction of the cam cotters influences lever angle.

[JonE]

just unearthing an old thread... the BIG inner nut must be the 1 11/16" not 1 1/4" as Tony suggests?
I've noticed that the position washer tab - curved rather than coming to a point - sits into the divot on the end of the axle side tube, but doesn't position particularly well - its easy for it move sideways. I'm presuming it must only secure down on the inner parts of the bearing and no contact with the outer bit. Have I perhaps got the wrong washers?

[Hugh Barnes]

I've just bought a Gedore 1" whit open ended spanner from Ebay for £6. Perfect fit...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144205981409

[Stuart Giles]

just unearthing an old thread... the BIG inner nut must be the 1 11/16" not 1 1/4" as Tony suggests?

The thread is 1 1/4" x 16 TPI. The original spanner size will be 1" Whitworth, but as Tony Betts says, 1 11/16" AF fits, as does a 43mm spanner/socket.

[JonE]

ok, understood!