Joined: Mar 2018 Posts: 4 Threads: 2
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I am putting together an engine for use in a special, it has a 2 bearing 1.5inch Phoenix crank, Phoenix rods and modern pistons from Tony Betts. It also has a high compression head.
A trial assembly, has revealed that my pistons protrude the deck by 8 thou. I would welcome advice on the best way to deal with this, and what clearance under the head should I really be aiming for, bearing in mind head gasket thickness etc.
Many thanks
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,416 Threads: 33
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Location: Deepest Frogland 30960
Car type: 1933 RP Standard Saloon
Sounds like you've had the block planed (or someone else has). You will need a spacer shim to go between the block and crankcase or some metal taken off the tops of the pistons. If I remember correctly the pistons should be .020" (?) below the block surface to allow for crank whip at high revs. The spacer shims are/were available at A7c.co.uk.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,808 Threads: 99
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its more likely you are useing a base gasket that is 17 thou thick, rather than 27 thou thick.
dont waiste your money on spacers.
fit a thicker gasket, or put two in.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,715 Threads: 47
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Location: Auckland NZ
Car type: 36 Nippy, 31 RM, 38 Special, 24 Works Rep
Sorry to disagree with you on this occasion Tony, although what you suggest may solve one problem, personally i believe two paper gaskets (one even!) is a perfect recipe for a leaking block joint.
Black Art Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,656 Threads: 23
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Location: The village of Evenley
Car type: 1934 Austin Seven RP Deluxe
Perhaps a couple of silicone block gaskets would do the trick?
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 328 Threads: 1
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Location: Bristol
Silicone gaskets are to soft for this, use a block shim coated on both sides with Three bond or machine pistons. I do a dry assembly to check this before fitting the piston rings. Terry.
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 2,748 Threads: 31
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Location: Auckland, NZ
If the gaskets do not overlap does a mere .008 matter? Assuming use of a conventional gasket
Joined: Aug 2017 Posts: 1,341 Threads: 34
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Location: Cheshire
Car type: Race Ulster, 1926 Special, 1927 Chummy, 1930 Box
20 thou might be correct for an original 1 5/16 crank at 6000 revs. I don’t know, not done that for years. The 1 1/2 cranked race engines I’ve built all have the piston crown level with the top of the block. 30+ years since the first one and I’ve not had any problems.
Alan Fairless