Removing torque tube

[Nick Mayne]

Am I able to remove the torque tube complete with the back axle on my 32 7 van? I have obviously disconnected the front propshaft and also disconnected the chassis mounting ball so the spherical housing can swing round. The advantage would be that I can then set up the diff etc etc including assembling the torque tube and its nut on the end of the pinion gear shaft without disassembling it to re-install.
I originally assembled it all with no body on so there was plenty of room but now it is a different kettle of fish!

[Lance Sheldrick]

Hi Nick, it shouldn't be a problem. The torque tube mounting will pass over the chassis and under the tunnel. You will either need a trolley jack or three arms!

[Bob Culver]

Unless there is some peculiarty about vans it is customary to remove as a unit, although the torque tube can be removed complete. But care is necessary to note adjustment, where shims fell from etc. Depending on the type, the pinon bearing may be quite a tight fit. There was extensive here recently about removal of the cotters, pursuading the unit back in between the springs etc. Might be worth searching.

[Nick Mayne]

Thanks Lance and Bob ... encouraging. Ref the flange at the front end with the nut that claps everything together I can move it back and forth by about 1/8" so something was not 'home' properly. Could be ominous as that means pinion would have moved in and out of mesh. An accompanying 'clonk' on forward/reverse. That is why I am investigating plus one rear hub that has too much runout.

[Bob Culver]

Sounds distinctly ominous. We all await developments with interest. Does the whole torque tube telescope or "just" the universal joint?

[Parazine]

Ref the flange at the front end with the nut that claps everything together I can move it back and forth by about 1/8" 

Usual cause of the symptom is the nut on the pinion shaft is loose. Root cause of the problem will be found in the spacer between the bearings, this will have fretted and be shorter than its proper length (I can't remember off hand what that should be), allowing the nut to work loose. Fixes? Well you can tighten the nut and add the amount of wear in the spacer to the shims on the torque tube or you can try and find a better spacer or you can get your local, friendly lathe owning companion to turn up a new spacer accurately. 

This problem is usually terminal in the end as the pinion works more and more deeply into mesh and eventually, the teeth shear off so it's best caught early. However, the pinion may well be marked after its escapade and may not run quietly even after the problem is fixed.

[Nick Mayne]

I got the axle complete with torque tube out by using two trolley jacks (ie with wheels) with each axle half 'bunge'ed' to the jacks to avoid slipping off. I had already disconnected the front prop shaft and the chassis mounting ball etc and swung that to one side. The whole thing came back easily by pulling both jacks. I found that the large nut that clamps the angular contact bearings to the pinion was not tight and some way away from the bearing face thus giving me that unwanted movement. So Parazine, you were correct. The nut had the old grub screw tightened against the flat on the shaft wire locked to stop it turning. The wire was copper and not my usual locking wire. Of course tightening the nut led to the grub screw being in the wrong place ... reminiscent of getting the split pin in the end of the halfshaft! I think I must have assumed (some years ago) that the nut at the other end of the shaft clamped everything up and left the other nut where it was. If all else fails, read the instructions ! I am trying to find a tab washer to use instead of the grub screw. Just a tip for others who might be removing their back axle...I removed the brake shoes on one side but then realised that was not necessary as the backplate has to be removed from the axle complete with shoes and dangling from the brake cable ....now in bags to keep the shoes clean. Crown wheel and pinion does not look any worse than when I first rebuilt it all a few years ago ..... I think.

[Bob Culver]

If the pinion teeth are long so not all engages, it is prudent to carefully remove the wear step with a Dremel or suchlike before attempting any mesh adjustment. Later pinions were made shorter to avoid (and a lesser step appeared on the cw).
It is curious that this nut is so often loose. It expereinces  little radial load to work it on shaft. It is not a crime to grip the shaft very tight in a vice. Someone some time ago published a grand photo of their wife showing how it is done .

[Parazine]

It is curious that this nut is so often loose. It expereinces  little radial load to work it on shaft. 

It's not really curious at all; as explained above, the root cause of the problem is fretting after high mileage on the spacer - repeated slight radial twisting of the components. The spacer is soft steel, all the other components abutting it are hardened.

I've stripped many axles where the nut has a tab washer, all still in place but loose, with the spacer 0.010" worn.

[Tony Press]

   

Another problem here is the fact that the Angular Contact bearings used in the Austin 7 Pinion thrust all have narrow outer rings, similar in style to the Angular Contact Crankshaft bearings.

The Differential bearing housing depth requires these bearings.
 
I have not been able to find any mention of this in the Austin Seven literature or the Austin Seven Companion.

I don't believe there are any original narrow outer ring Austin Seven Angular Contact bearings left, so we have had standard bearings modified locally to suit.